ATW-2 Day 21: Salzburg, Austria, to Venice, Italy

Technically, the destination of this trip was Mestre, Italy, a suburb of Venice. But it is virtually impossible to drive to Venice and that was really why we were staying in Mestre. So I will call it a trip to Venice.

We had breakfast of coffee, bread and cheese in our room, then packed up and checked out.

Our home for the two nights in Salzburg was the Leonardo Hotel Salzburg Airport. Breakfast was extra at this hotel which is why we ate breakfast in our room. But parking was free, which was a big plus. It also had a comfortable king bed, a very nice bathroom – clean and spacious – and a teapot, an espresso coffee maker and a minifridge. The who place was very modern and attractive. And not very expensive. 8 out of 10.

We started the trip by gassing up. This tankful was less than $60 which sounds expensive, but it was only 1.54 euros per liter which is cheaper than most of the gas we have consumed, so I was happy. Then we set off on a 7-hour no-toll trip to Venice.

The trip out of Salzburg was through the Austrian Alps which were quite beautiful. The fall colors weren’t as vivid as in New England, but they were nice. I had never been in Europe in the fall and was a bit surprised that the fall colors were this good.

We took a short break in Warfen Austria which had a castle hovering over the city and a cute church. It was plain on the outside but surprisingly ornate inside.

We stopped again in Villach Austria for coffee and a bio break. It also had a cathedral which was large and ornate.

We stopped a couple more times to catch the beauty of this section of Austria. It was dark by the time we entered Italy. That was probably beautiful, too, but we couldn’t see. We arrived at our hotel just before 9pm.

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ATW-2 Day 20: Salzburg, Austria

I got the day started by going to the market next to the hotel to get fresh bread and we had a breakfast of coffee and bread with butter and jam in the hotel room. We admired the nearby mountains as we ate – we didn’t see them upon arrival as it was very dark. After breakfast we headed into Salzburg for a day of sightseeing.

We had more difficulty than we expected during the 20-minute ride to the center of town. First, the GPS took us to the wrong destination (no idea how the destination got reset), then we had to dodge the aggressive buses. In Italy it is scooters; in Austria it is buses. The seem to think they own the roads.

We found a place to park and then walked into the “altstadt” (old city). I was in Salzburg in 1974 and thought I remembered a bit about the city, but I was wrong. Either my memory is faulty (all too possible) or the city has changed dramatically in 50 years (also possible). It was all new to me.

We managed to find Mozartplatz and then just wandered. We went into the Residenz and that led us io the Salzburg Cathedral. But we couldn’t get into the cathedral because a noon concert was in progress. So we went back into the square, did some shopping (yes, we bought a couple of souvenir magnets) and then started climbing toward the Hohensalzburg Fortress, a massive walled complex that lurks over the city.

We got some nice photos as will climbed to the fortress. But we didn’t go into the fortress as it was rather pricey and we weren’t sure it would be worth it. So we continued to walk around the hill, taking more photos.

We stopped at several churches when we got back to town. Then we looked for a restaurant. Marlene really wanted a “bratwurst sampler” – a meal with bratwurst, fleischwurst and weisswurst. We couldn’t find that, exactly, but did find a 3-sausage meal at the Goldene Kugel.

Sunset in Salzburg

We logged over 14,000 steps in and around Salzburg. We were tired after our dinner so we headed back to the hotel. Marlene got a terrific sunset shot along the way.

I spent the evening editing photos, blogging and clearing some space on Marlene’s phone (she had received a warning about it being unable to back up her photos). That took a lot of time.

We slept well.

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ATW-2 Day 19: Landau, Germany, to Salzburg, Austria

I got up at 7am, went out to get coffee and bread and to gas up the car ($80 – a new record for a vehicle that isn’t my truck). Then we had breakfast and, after a lengthy chat with the host, got on the road.

Our home for one evening in Landau (or Kronau, according to Google) was the “Vacation apartment Riva.” This was a VRBO rental. It was the bottom half of a two-story home. We didn’t use the living room and dining room; the bedroom, bath, kitchen and dinette were plenty for us. How was the place? In a word, AWESOME. It was not only large, comfortable and fully stocked with dishes, pans, silverware and spices, but the quality of construction was amazing. Custom shower, Jacuzzi (not used), designer sink and faucet. Everywhere we looked we saw quality. And money. We felt like royalty for one night. We even said to each other: too bad it is just one night.

We took advantage of the kitchen that one night to cook sausage and noodles.

The reason it was just one night is that it was merely a stop on our way to Munich and Salzburg. I don’t think there is a lot to do in the Landau area. I certainly had no intention of ever returning. But if this place is available… maybe.

The one strange thing: no freezer. Who builds a home without a freezer. How do you even find a refrigerator without a freezer? Very strange.

Another difference between France and Germany: very few toll roads in Germany. Consequently we travelled on autobahns the entire way. Except that we stopped in Munich for a break. And a beer. And a sausage. The beer and sausage were fine, but nothing special.

Then we wandered around Munich for an hour or so. We visited Marienplatz (which is the heart of Munich) and a couple of cathedrals, including St Peter’s.

We did a little window shopping and bought a loaf of bread. Then, as the sun was setting, got back on the road, headed to Salzburg. We arrived at 7:30pm and were able to do some grocery shopping before the supermarket next to the hotel closed.

There was one scary moment along the way. I think I have mentioned that Germans drive FAST. There are also a lot of trucks that drive SLOW. The autobahn usually has three lanes so there is a middle lane where people drive sensibly. But we came across an incident – a stalled vehicle in the right lane, I believe – that caused a truck to swerve into the middle lane. Which caused me to swerve into the fast lane. And brake hard. It was a scary nea-collision, but we escaped.

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ATW-2 Day 18: Paris, France, to Landau, Germany

The four nights in Paris were memorable in both good and bad ways. But the hotel in which we resided for the final 3 days was very fine: Sejours and Affaires Paris Vincennes. This seems to be a hotel geared toward long-term stays by students. But it isn’t a dormitory, isn’t affiliated with a school and certainly welcomed us. So kind of an oddball, but quite comfortable. Clean bathroom, comfortable bed and a kitchenette that allowed us to actually cook meals on a stove. WAY better than the first Paris hotel.

It also had garage parking, for an additional 13 euros per day. I paid for parking but in retrospect might have skipped it as there was free parking on the street and the area seemed quite safe.

Anyway, we checked out of the hotel around 9am and embarked on a 7-hours-plus journey across France, into Germany. We made one stop, in Vitry-le-Francois, on a whim because we saw the towers of a cathedral. It was younger than the cathedrals we had visited in and near Paris, being built in the 17th century, but it was quite beautiful. We were glad we stopped. And it felt good to stretch the legs.

We wandered the town for a bit and bought a pistachio eclair – a first for us. Then we got back on the road.

The border between France and Germany has almost entirely disappeared. The only notice that we left France was a small sign with “Allemagne” (Germany in French) on it. There was a checkpoint but it appeared that no one was being stopped.

We stopped for some groceries at an Aldi in Virty-le-Francois as we knew that we would have access to a full kitchen and were craving a home-cooked meal. We got some sausage that could be pan-fried.

One difference between France and Germany became obvious pretty quickly: the speed on the roads. In France we were often frustrated by slow drivers. Almost no one traveled more than 10 kph over the limit, which made mine one of the fastest cars on the road. That flipped in Germany: I was one of the slowest. Germans drive FAST. This is encouraged by the lack of a speed limit on many sections of the expressways / autobahns.

We had dinner and played cards. Do I need to tell you who won?

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ATW-2 Day 17: Paris, France

Eiffel Tower

The day started with breakfast in our room, followed by a series of chores necessary to recover from the lost wallet, including replacing the temporary room card with a real one (which will only be used for one day but that is one day more than the temporary one could be used). I also paid my monthly bills as the end of the month is rapidly approaching.

Around 1pm we left the hotel, walked to the train station and had a fairly elaborate discussion with the transit people about how to get 6 more tickets. We would have preferred getting 6 more paper ones like we had been using (and 8 of which were lost with the wallet). But the system is switching over to tap-and-go fare cards and our station was one that had switched over. Paper tickets were not an option. So we had to buy 2 reusable tap-and-go cards at 4 euros each. The tickets, when loaded on the card, are just 2 euros per ride rather than 2.5, so we save 3 euros on the 6 tickets. But it was still a net loss of 5 euros. Bummer.

Our destination was the Eiffel Tower. We had both been there before, but in Marlene’s case it was over 60 years ago, so she was eager to see it again. We found that security has been tightened a lot. The entire block is fenced in and we had to go through a security screening to get inside. But we got in.

We didn’t stay long. Just long enough to take some photos. Then back on the Metro to get to our dinner engagement with Benjie and Junko.

Our last dinner in Paris was at Bistrot le Dome – Benjie and Junko’s favorite seafood haunt. We all had baby squid as an appetizer and it was spectacular. Marlene was adventurous with her entree, ordering the fried skate. I was a bit more conventional, ordering a normal fish, but it was a fish I had never had before (and can’t name now). It was all very good, with kir to start and espresso to finish. I also had their creme brulee, which was excellent.

Benjie and Junko picked up the tab, which was a pleasant surprise. Perhaps they felt sorry for me, a guy with no wallet. Well, every cloud has a silver lining, eh?

It was a very pleasant evening. Thank you, Benjie and Junko.

Our table at Bistrot le Dome

For those of you who have been paying attention, Benjie is David Benjamin, the author of a number of books that I have reviewed here. Search “Benjamin” and you will find the posts. He is a very talented author. He also published a weekly screed which is free for the asking. Just go to his website: lastkidbooks.com and either read the screeds there or send a note to the author asking to be put on the screed mailing list.

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ATW-2 Day 16: Paris, France

This day started well but ended with near disaster.

We had breakfast of bread, jam, coffee and croissants in our room, then headed out, finding a local farmer’s market at the train station and then boarding the A train to the Arc de Triomphe. We considered going to the top, but were deterred by the 16-euro ticket price. We took some photos then wandered down the Champs-Élysées. We were headed to the Place Bastille where we were told there was a farmer’s market on Sundays but never made it there. We took a detour in search of bread – a bit hard to find on a Sunday in this high-rent district – and eventually found some. We continued walking while munching the bread.

We eventually found ourselves at the Grand Palais and the Petit Palais – two institutions that I have never visited. I didn’t go in this time, either, but got some photos.

We continued to walk down to the Seine, and alongside it for a while. Got a glimpse of the Eiffel Tower, the Musee d’Orsay and the Louvre.

We crossed the Seine to the Left Bank and did some window shopping and found some dessert for dinner at Benjie and Junko’s place. The we found their place, figured out how to get in, walked up to their 6th floor apartment and had a wonderful scallops dinner. We met their “French daughter,” Leia.

That should have been the end of the evening but it wasn’t. We bought some more tickets for the subway but couldn’t figure out how to use them at the station we were at (the gate was open). So, after buying some candy at the transfer station (Chatelet), I put the tickets back into my wallet as we were transferring to the A train. We needed the tickets to get out of the station when we got to our destination near the hotel but when I reached for my wallet… NOT THERE! As in Madrid, I had lost or had my wallet stolen on the subway. Don’t know how as I don’t recall anyone being near me during that short ride (and I was sitting) but it was gone. We went back to Chatelet on the slim hope that I had left the wallet in the store where I had bought the candy. Nope, not there.

Back to the train. When we got off we filed a report with the transit police. Then walked to the hotel where I had to call the emergency number to get a key to the room (yes, that had been in the wallet too). Two credit cards (which I froze), a bank card (which I froze), my driver’s license (which I will have to replace when I get back to Florida, my medical insurance card (ditto) and about $300 in a mix of euros and dollars. I had learned in Madrid to not carry unnecessary stuff and really thought I was being careful on the subway.

Not careful enough.

This is going to make renting a car in Tampa difficult. And I am probably going to need to do a cash advance on my MasterCard to get us through to Rome. So painful. But not a disaster.

I am not going to carry a wallet on the subway in Europe ever again.

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ATW-2 Day 15: Paris, France

We had breakfast at our dreadful hotel, then, after requesting a refund from Travelocity and finding a new hotel a bit further out, in Vincennes, drove there. Locating it was harder than you might imagine because when the GPS said we had arrived it was nowhere in sight. So I went into the only building that was open to inquire. The response? “Yes, that is us.” Low-key is an understatement. I think it is primarily geared toward students, but it had a parking garage and a kitchenette, so it suited us. We checked in (the room, surprisingly, was ready), parked the car, unloaded the luggage and asked for information on getting into the city. Then we headed to Paris, on the RER A train, which, happily, took the subway tickets that I had purchased the day before.

The new hotel was near a new skate park, which provided some amusement.

We stayed just one night at the Comfort Hotel Paris Porte d-Ivry. The breakfast was good but not great. The room was awful. 2 out of 10. There was no “comfort” in this hotel.

We are still waiting on the hotel refund.

We met Benjie and Junko at Maison Peret for a light and very leisurely lunch, then wandered the city for a bit. Marlene did some window shopping and we wandered the Montparnasse Cemetery, taking photos along the way.

We boarded the subway to go to Notre Dame. Benjie left us to go home to edit his photos while Junko escorted us to Notre Dame. We got some nice photos outside, then waited nearly 30 minutes to be allowed inside. We entered just as 6pm Saturday mass was commencing. We got to tour the cathedral to the music of the mass. Very cool!

There was some kind of religious procession outside when we exited. Got a photo of that and, later, a wonderful photo of Notre Dame as the setting sun poked through the clouds.

We then walked to Benjie and Junko’s neighborhood and had some mulled wine in the local cafe. Then we walked to dinner at La Pie Noir, a little family restaurant. We all had razor clams (never heard of them but they were terrific) and Marlene and I followed that with some delicious salmon. We shared profiterole for dessert.

All four of us, with server
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ATW-2 Day 14: Ange to Paris, France

Chartres Cathedral
Bidding farewell to Michel

We were sad to leave our home for 3 days in Ange, Le Clos des Epinettes. We had the basement in-law apartment which suited us perfectly. Full kitchen, comfortable bed, clean bathroom. The hosts, Michel and Didier, were wonderful too. The only complaint we had was the size of the bath towels – too small. But otherwise simply wonderful. 9 out of 10.

We drove from Ange to Chartres, stopping along the way at a supermarket for bread and gas. Then we visited the Chartres Cathedral, a wonderful medieval cathedral. Arguably the most impressive and beautiful cathedral I have ever seen. I had been there before, many years ago, and after seeing the wonderful cathedral in Tours I was worried that it would be a disappointment. It wasn’t. Amazing detail both outside and inside.

It was chilly but sunny. A nice break from the dreary weather of the past few days.

We once again took the no-toll route. That meant that we encountered many more traffic circles / rotaries / roundabouts. I think we have seen about a thousand now.

We then drove to Paris and checked into our hotel – Comfort Hotel Paris Porte d’Ivry. We were disappointed in the room, to say the least. NO amenities whatsoever – no refrigerator, no microwave, no coffee. And it smelled. We had to stay that night as we had plans to go to a jazz club in Paris, but we resolved to find another place.

We walked 10 minutes to a Metro station, got tickets and made our way into Paris. We were to meet my friends, Benjie and Junko, at Cafe Beaubourg for a drink, then on to Le Duc des Lombards where we listened to some good jazz by an American jazz band.

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ATW-2 Day 13: Ange, France

Rooftops of Blois from the Chateau Plaza

The weather did not cooperate today – it was cold, windy and rained intermittently all day. Not a fun day for sightseeing. But, after breakfast in our suite, we ventured out to see the sights of Blois.

The main goal was to see the Blois Cathedral. We achieved that goal by parking the car about a half mile away and walking there through a bitterly cold, cutting wind, only to find parking available near the door to the cathedral. But it was dry and relatively warm inside. And quite impressive.

We bought some bread on our way back to the car, but rather than doing the sensible thing by getting in and driving home, we deposited the bread in the car and walked up to the Chateau of Blois. We didn’t go in as it was pricey, but got a shot of the courtyard. And Marlene posed next to the merry-go-round in the plaza. We also took the photo at the top of the post.

We then got in the car, but on our way out of town spotted yet another interesting cathedral. So we found a parking spot and walked to it. But it was closed as it was being extensively renovated. Marlene snuck one interior shot but otherwise we were left to admire the outside. It was a huge, very impressive building. But the name escapes me at this moment.

Marlene found a thrift shop and bought a couple of cold-weather items. Then we went home. We had dinner and played cards. Of course she won.

Hopefully the weather will be better tomorrow.

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ATW-2 Day 12: Ange, France

Another rainy day. It did dry out some in the afternoon, though, so it wasn’t a complete washout.

After breakfast in our kitchen we drove to Tours, about 50 minutes away, with the intention of viewing the Tours Cathedral. We did do that, eventually, but it was hosting a funeral when we arrived, so we wandered around in the area for about 30 minutes, mostly on the grounds of the nearby art museum.

The Tours Cathedral is one impressive structure. It is old, being built between the 12th and 16th centuries. Its stained glass windows are spectacular with each telling a different story. Amazing place.

We then wandered the streets of Tours for a bit, buying some bread (always a nice snack while walking) and visiting a second-hand clothing shop (nothing purchased).

We left Tours and drove to the Chateau de Chenonceau, a beautiful and historic 16th century residence on the Cher River. In approaching the structure we paused at the maze. It was muddy and I was wearing shoes so I didn’t go far in. But Marlene wasn’t deterred; she found the center of the maze in no time.

Marlene complained that the 16-euro price was too high and she may be right. I think the mansions in Newport RI are more impressive. But this chateau has a lot of history. Many French kings visited here and at least one lived here for a time. The place is filled with 16th century tapestries and other ancient artifacts.

We did some food shopping on the way back to our residence. Food seems to be relatively inexpensive in France – especially the delicious fresh-baked breads. A loaf costs less than $2. We got some snacks, sugar, coffee and soup mix for under $10. We had soup with bread and cheese for dinner. Coffee too.

I read and blogged before bed.

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