ATW-2 Day 23: Venice, Italy

We started the day with the hotel breakfast, then set off for Venice again. We didn’t want to walk the same 10 miles this time so we resolved to give the ferry on the Grand Canal a try. When we left the train station I approached the ferry ticket booth and asked for 2 tickets to Salute, meaning the stop by the Basilica de Santa Maria della Salute (“Saint Mary of Health”). I chose that destination because it was at the far end of the Grand Canal and was on the other side of the canal from Piazza San Marco. Might as well see what that side has to offer.

The Salute stop is reached via the Number 1 water ferry route and the ticket seller told me to board it at Dock A. Or at least I thought that what she said. But after Marlene and I went through the Dock A turnstile, waited patiently while people boarded the Number 2 ferry and then saw the Number 1 ferry pass us by, I figured we might not be in the right place. So I exited the dock, went back to the ticket booth and asked a different seller where I should board Number 1. Dock E he said. Not A. E. Sounds similar when given with an Italian accent.

Anyway, I went back to Dock A, collected Marlene and marched down a hundred yards to Dock E. Fortunately, the ticket still worked for us there. We boarded the Number 1 ferry when it arrived a few minutes later.

We spent some time in the basilica (very impressive) then wandered the streets near it. Then we crossed the Grand Canal on a bridge and looked for a restaurant. I wanted a real Italian spaghetti meal.

We dined al fresco at a little restaurant in the Campo Santo Stefano. Marlene had spaghetti pesto with shrimp and I had spaghetti carbonara. Both excellent. We really splurged and we each had a glass of wine with the meal.

The rain started just as we were finishing. We hopped back on the Number 1 ferry. By the time we reached the train station the rain was pretty steady and was pouring by the time we reached Mestre. Fortunately we had brought our ponchos so we donned them for the 10 minute walk to the hotel.

We weren’t really hungry but had some bread and cheese in the room. Then Marlene continued her dominance in rummy, winning both games.

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ATW-2 Day 22: Venice, Italy

Our first look at Venice, exiting the rail station

Well, I finally made it to Venice. I think Jett would be happy for me – our plans to visit Venice at the end of TC1 in 2018 had to be aborted due to Jett’s health. Since then it has been near the top of my bucket list. I was very much looking forward to these two days.

But when I woke up this morning I realized that the weather was going to be far from ideal. The forecast was for a solid overcast both days with occasional showers. Oh, well. Make the best of it.

After a complimentary breakfast at the hotel Marlene and I walked 10 minutes to the Mestre train station and, after figuring out how to get tickets (with some good advice from a fellow traveler at breakfast), we boarded a train for a 15-minute ride into Venice.

Venice is a city of canals, with no automobiles (and, somewhat to my surprise, no bicycles). Walking, water taxis, ferries and gondolas are the only ways to get around. We favored walking on this day as we didn’t want to miss anything. So we set off on foot, headed for the Piazza San Marco. And we got there… after 4.5 hours of not missing anything. Especially shopping. Venice is one big pedestrian shopping mall. Lots of high-end clothing store, tons of restaurants, about billion gelaterias (basically ice cream shops) and many souvenir and craft shops. Lots of things for first-time visitors to look at. And we looked at them all.

We learned that Venice has over 400 bridges. I think we crossed about 50 of them on our way to San Marco. And Marlene found a casino which, thankfully, was not open.

There is one large canal – the Grand Canal – and hundreds of small canals. A couple of main streets and hundreds of small, meandering alleys. I think one would have to live here for at least a year before being able to get around without a GPS.

Venice is also a city of churches and we visited several of those in our first 5 hours there. Excuse me for not identifying each one – they kind of melted together in my mind.

One church that I can identify for you is St Mark’s Basilica which we saw when we finally got to the Piazza San Marco. But we couldn’t go in – entry is limited to tours only. Too many tourists, I guess.

We walked down to the southern edge of the piazza, to the Grand Canal. We got some good shots down there. It was a bit foggy with some drizzle by the time we got there, so we decided to head back.

Looking across the Grand Canal through the drizzle

The walk back involved some more window shopping but took only about 90 minutes instead of the 4.5 hours. And we took a different route, so we saw different shops, different alleys and different bridges. And Marlene chatted up a couple of gondoliers.

We took the train back to Mestre and had dinner of bread and cheese in our room. I blogged some and we went to bed very tired. We had logged over 20,000 steps – over 10 miles of walking.

And my back was aching. This is beginning to concern me. I used to be able to walk long distances with no pain. No more. I think I have some sciatica. Not good.

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ATW-2 Day 21: Salzburg, Austria, to Venice, Italy

Technically, the destination of this trip was Mestre, Italy, a suburb of Venice. But it is virtually impossible to drive to Venice and that was really why we were staying in Mestre. So I will call it a trip to Venice.

We had breakfast of coffee, bread and cheese in our room, then packed up and checked out.

Our home for the two nights in Salzburg was the Leonardo Hotel Salzburg Airport. Breakfast was extra at this hotel which is why we ate breakfast in our room. But parking was free, which was a big plus. It also had a comfortable king bed, a very nice bathroom – clean and spacious – and a teapot, an espresso coffee maker and a minifridge. The who place was very modern and attractive. And not very expensive. 8 out of 10.

We started the trip by gassing up. This tankful was less than $60 which sounds expensive, but it was only 1.54 euros per liter which is cheaper than most of the gas we have consumed, so I was happy. Then we set off on a 7-hour no-toll trip to Venice.

The trip out of Salzburg was through the Austrian Alps which were quite beautiful. The fall colors weren’t as vivid as in New England, but they were nice. I had never been in Europe in the fall and was a bit surprised that the fall colors were this good.

We took a short break in Warfen Austria which had a castle hovering over the city and a cute church. It was plain on the outside but surprisingly ornate inside.

We stopped again in Villach Austria for coffee and a bio break. It also had a cathedral which was large and ornate.

We stopped a couple more times to catch the beauty of this section of Austria. It was dark by the time we entered Italy. That was probably beautiful, too, but we couldn’t see. We arrived at our hotel just before 9pm.

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ATW-2 Day 20: Salzburg, Austria

I got the day started by going to the market next to the hotel to get fresh bread and we had a breakfast of coffee and bread with butter and jam in the hotel room. We admired the nearby mountains as we ate – we didn’t see them upon arrival as it was very dark. After breakfast we headed into Salzburg for a day of sightseeing.

We had more difficulty than we expected during the 20-minute ride to the center of town. First, the GPS took us to the wrong destination (no idea how the destination got reset), then we had to dodge the aggressive buses. In Italy it is scooters; in Austria it is buses. The seem to think they own the roads.

We found a place to park and then walked into the “altstadt” (old city). I was in Salzburg in 1974 and thought I remembered a bit about the city, but I was wrong. Either my memory is faulty (all too possible) or the city has changed dramatically in 50 years (also possible). It was all new to me.

We managed to find Mozartplatz and then just wandered. We went into the Residenz and that led us io the Salzburg Cathedral. But we couldn’t get into the cathedral because a noon concert was in progress. So we went back into the square, did some shopping (yes, we bought a couple of souvenir magnets) and then started climbing toward the Hohensalzburg Fortress, a massive walled complex that lurks over the city.

We got some nice photos as will climbed to the fortress. But we didn’t go into the fortress as it was rather pricey and we weren’t sure it would be worth it. So we continued to walk around the hill, taking more photos.

We stopped at several churches when we got back to town. Then we looked for a restaurant. Marlene really wanted a “bratwurst sampler” – a meal with bratwurst, fleischwurst and weisswurst. We couldn’t find that, exactly, but did find a 3-sausage meal at the Goldene Kugel.

Sunset in Salzburg

We logged over 14,000 steps in and around Salzburg. We were tired after our dinner so we headed back to the hotel. Marlene got a terrific sunset shot along the way.

I spent the evening editing photos, blogging and clearing some space on Marlene’s phone (she had received a warning about it being unable to back up her photos). That took a lot of time.

We slept well.

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ATW-2 Day 19: Landau, Germany, to Salzburg, Austria

I got up at 7am, went out to get coffee and bread and to gas up the car ($80 – a new record for a vehicle that isn’t my truck). Then we had breakfast and, after a lengthy chat with the host, got on the road.

Our home for one evening in Landau (or Kronau, according to Google) was the “Vacation apartment Riva.” This was a VRBO rental. It was the bottom half of a two-story home. We didn’t use the living room and dining room; the bedroom, bath, kitchen and dinette were plenty for us. How was the place? In a word, AWESOME. It was not only large, comfortable and fully stocked with dishes, pans, silverware and spices, but the quality of construction was amazing. Custom shower, Jacuzzi (not used), designer sink and faucet. Everywhere we looked we saw quality. And money. We felt like royalty for one night. We even said to each other: too bad it is just one night.

We took advantage of the kitchen that one night to cook sausage and noodles.

The reason it was just one night is that it was merely a stop on our way to Munich and Salzburg. I don’t think there is a lot to do in the Landau area. I certainly had no intention of ever returning. But if this place is available… maybe.

The one strange thing: no freezer. Who builds a home without a freezer. How do you even find a refrigerator without a freezer? Very strange.

Another difference between France and Germany: very few toll roads in Germany. Consequently we travelled on autobahns the entire way. Except that we stopped in Munich for a break. And a beer. And a sausage. The beer and sausage were fine, but nothing special.

Then we wandered around Munich for an hour or so. We visited Marienplatz (which is the heart of Munich) and a couple of cathedrals, including St Peter’s.

We did a little window shopping and bought a loaf of bread. Then, as the sun was setting, got back on the road, headed to Salzburg. We arrived at 7:30pm and were able to do some grocery shopping before the supermarket next to the hotel closed.

There was one scary moment along the way. I think I have mentioned that Germans drive FAST. There are also a lot of trucks that drive SLOW. The autobahn usually has three lanes so there is a middle lane where people drive sensibly. But we came across an incident – a stalled vehicle in the right lane, I believe – that caused a truck to swerve into the middle lane. Which caused me to swerve into the fast lane. And brake hard. It was a scary nea-collision, but we escaped.

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ATW-2 Day 18: Paris, France, to Landau, Germany

The four nights in Paris were memorable in both good and bad ways. But the hotel in which we resided for the final 3 days was very fine: Sejours and Affaires Paris Vincennes. This seems to be a hotel geared toward long-term stays by students. But it isn’t a dormitory, isn’t affiliated with a school and certainly welcomed us. So kind of an oddball, but quite comfortable. Clean bathroom, comfortable bed and a kitchenette that allowed us to actually cook meals on a stove. WAY better than the first Paris hotel.

It also had garage parking, for an additional 13 euros per day. I paid for parking but in retrospect might have skipped it as there was free parking on the street and the area seemed quite safe.

Anyway, we checked out of the hotel around 9am and embarked on a 7-hours-plus journey across France, into Germany. We made one stop, in Vitry-le-Francois, on a whim because we saw the towers of a cathedral. It was younger than the cathedrals we had visited in and near Paris, being built in the 17th century, but it was quite beautiful. We were glad we stopped. And it felt good to stretch the legs.

We wandered the town for a bit and bought a pistachio eclair – a first for us. Then we got back on the road.

The border between France and Germany has almost entirely disappeared. The only notice that we left France was a small sign with “Allemagne” (Germany in French) on it. There was a checkpoint but it appeared that no one was being stopped.

We stopped for some groceries at an Aldi in Virty-le-Francois as we knew that we would have access to a full kitchen and were craving a home-cooked meal. We got some sausage that could be pan-fried.

One difference between France and Germany became obvious pretty quickly: the speed on the roads. In France we were often frustrated by slow drivers. Almost no one traveled more than 10 kph over the limit, which made mine one of the fastest cars on the road. That flipped in Germany: I was one of the slowest. Germans drive FAST. This is encouraged by the lack of a speed limit on many sections of the expressways / autobahns.

We had dinner and played cards. Do I need to tell you who won?

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ATW-2 Day 17: Paris, France

Eiffel Tower

The day started with breakfast in our room, followed by a series of chores necessary to recover from the lost wallet, including replacing the temporary room card with a real one (which will only be used for one day but that is one day more than the temporary one could be used). I also paid my monthly bills as the end of the month is rapidly approaching.

Around 1pm we left the hotel, walked to the train station and had a fairly elaborate discussion with the transit people about how to get 6 more tickets. We would have preferred getting 6 more paper ones like we had been using (and 8 of which were lost with the wallet). But the system is switching over to tap-and-go fare cards and our station was one that had switched over. Paper tickets were not an option. So we had to buy 2 reusable tap-and-go cards at 4 euros each. The tickets, when loaded on the card, are just 2 euros per ride rather than 2.5, so we save 3 euros on the 6 tickets. But it was still a net loss of 5 euros. Bummer.

Our destination was the Eiffel Tower. We had both been there before, but in Marlene’s case it was over 60 years ago, so she was eager to see it again. We found that security has been tightened a lot. The entire block is fenced in and we had to go through a security screening to get inside. But we got in.

We didn’t stay long. Just long enough to take some photos. Then back on the Metro to get to our dinner engagement with Benjie and Junko.

Our last dinner in Paris was at Bistrot le Dome – Benjie and Junko’s favorite seafood haunt. We all had baby squid as an appetizer and it was spectacular. Marlene was adventurous with her entree, ordering the fried skate. I was a bit more conventional, ordering a normal fish, but it was a fish I had never had before (and can’t name now). It was all very good, with kir to start and espresso to finish. I also had their creme brulee, which was excellent.

Benjie and Junko picked up the tab, which was a pleasant surprise. Perhaps they felt sorry for me, a guy with no wallet. Well, every cloud has a silver lining, eh?

It was a very pleasant evening. Thank you, Benjie and Junko.

Our table at Bistrot le Dome

For those of you who have been paying attention, Benjie is David Benjamin, the author of a number of books that I have reviewed here. Search “Benjamin” and you will find the posts. He is a very talented author. He also published a weekly screed which is free for the asking. Just go to his website: lastkidbooks.com and either read the screeds there or send a note to the author asking to be put on the screed mailing list.

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ATW-2 Day 16: Paris, France

This day started well but ended with near disaster.

We had breakfast of bread, jam, coffee and croissants in our room, then headed out, finding a local farmer’s market at the train station and then boarding the A train to the Arc de Triomphe. We considered going to the top, but were deterred by the 16-euro ticket price. We took some photos then wandered down the Champs-Élysées. We were headed to the Place Bastille where we were told there was a farmer’s market on Sundays but never made it there. We took a detour in search of bread – a bit hard to find on a Sunday in this high-rent district – and eventually found some. We continued walking while munching the bread.

We eventually found ourselves at the Grand Palais and the Petit Palais – two institutions that I have never visited. I didn’t go in this time, either, but got some photos.

We continued to walk down to the Seine, and alongside it for a while. Got a glimpse of the Eiffel Tower, the Musee d’Orsay and the Louvre.

We crossed the Seine to the Left Bank and did some window shopping and found some dessert for dinner at Benjie and Junko’s place. The we found their place, figured out how to get in, walked up to their 6th floor apartment and had a wonderful scallops dinner. We met their “French daughter,” Leia.

That should have been the end of the evening but it wasn’t. We bought some more tickets for the subway but couldn’t figure out how to use them at the station we were at (the gate was open). So, after buying some candy at the transfer station (Chatelet), I put the tickets back into my wallet as we were transferring to the A train. We needed the tickets to get out of the station when we got to our destination near the hotel but when I reached for my wallet… NOT THERE! As in Madrid, I had lost or had my wallet stolen on the subway. Don’t know how as I don’t recall anyone being near me during that short ride (and I was sitting) but it was gone. We went back to Chatelet on the slim hope that I had left the wallet in the store where I had bought the candy. Nope, not there.

Back to the train. When we got off we filed a report with the transit police. Then walked to the hotel where I had to call the emergency number to get a key to the room (yes, that had been in the wallet too). Two credit cards (which I froze), a bank card (which I froze), my driver’s license (which I will have to replace when I get back to Florida, my medical insurance card (ditto) and about $300 in a mix of euros and dollars. I had learned in Madrid to not carry unnecessary stuff and really thought I was being careful on the subway.

Not careful enough.

This is going to make renting a car in Tampa difficult. And I am probably going to need to do a cash advance on my MasterCard to get us through to Rome. So painful. But not a disaster.

I am not going to carry a wallet on the subway in Europe ever again.

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ATW-2 Day 15: Paris, France

We had breakfast at our dreadful hotel, then, after requesting a refund from Travelocity and finding a new hotel a bit further out, in Vincennes, drove there. Locating it was harder than you might imagine because when the GPS said we had arrived it was nowhere in sight. So I went into the only building that was open to inquire. The response? “Yes, that is us.” Low-key is an understatement. I think it is primarily geared toward students, but it had a parking garage and a kitchenette, so it suited us. We checked in (the room, surprisingly, was ready), parked the car, unloaded the luggage and asked for information on getting into the city. Then we headed to Paris, on the RER A train, which, happily, took the subway tickets that I had purchased the day before.

The new hotel was near a new skate park, which provided some amusement.

We stayed just one night at the Comfort Hotel Paris Porte d-Ivry. The breakfast was good but not great. The room was awful. 2 out of 10. There was no “comfort” in this hotel.

We are still waiting on the hotel refund.

We met Benjie and Junko at Maison Peret for a light and very leisurely lunch, then wandered the city for a bit. Marlene did some window shopping and we wandered the Montparnasse Cemetery, taking photos along the way.

We boarded the subway to go to Notre Dame. Benjie left us to go home to edit his photos while Junko escorted us to Notre Dame. We got some nice photos outside, then waited nearly 30 minutes to be allowed inside. We entered just as 6pm Saturday mass was commencing. We got to tour the cathedral to the music of the mass. Very cool!

There was some kind of religious procession outside when we exited. Got a photo of that and, later, a wonderful photo of Notre Dame as the setting sun poked through the clouds.

We then walked to Benjie and Junko’s neighborhood and had some mulled wine in the local cafe. Then we walked to dinner at La Pie Noir, a little family restaurant. We all had razor clams (never heard of them but they were terrific) and Marlene and I followed that with some delicious salmon. We shared profiterole for dessert.

All four of us, with server
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ATW-2 Day 14: Ange to Paris, France

Chartres Cathedral
Bidding farewell to Michel

We were sad to leave our home for 3 days in Ange, Le Clos des Epinettes. We had the basement in-law apartment which suited us perfectly. Full kitchen, comfortable bed, clean bathroom. The hosts, Michel and Didier, were wonderful too. The only complaint we had was the size of the bath towels – too small. But otherwise simply wonderful. 9 out of 10.

We drove from Ange to Chartres, stopping along the way at a supermarket for bread and gas. Then we visited the Chartres Cathedral, a wonderful medieval cathedral. Arguably the most impressive and beautiful cathedral I have ever seen. I had been there before, many years ago, and after seeing the wonderful cathedral in Tours I was worried that it would be a disappointment. It wasn’t. Amazing detail both outside and inside.

It was chilly but sunny. A nice break from the dreary weather of the past few days.

We once again took the no-toll route. That meant that we encountered many more traffic circles / rotaries / roundabouts. I think we have seen about a thousand now.

We then drove to Paris and checked into our hotel – Comfort Hotel Paris Porte d’Ivry. We were disappointed in the room, to say the least. NO amenities whatsoever – no refrigerator, no microwave, no coffee. And it smelled. We had to stay that night as we had plans to go to a jazz club in Paris, but we resolved to find another place.

We walked 10 minutes to a Metro station, got tickets and made our way into Paris. We were to meet my friends, Benjie and Junko, at Cafe Beaubourg for a drink, then on to Le Duc des Lombards where we listened to some good jazz by an American jazz band.

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