Winchester Mystery House

This is a catch-up (catsup, ketchup?) post. We went to the Winchester Mystery House exactly one month ago – January 6th – but I haven’t gotten around to blogging about it until now, partly because the few pictures that we took (interior photos are not permitted) didn’t come off the camera until this morning.

Winchester Mystery House

The Winchester Mystery House is a curiosity. It is big, as a mansion should be – over 100 rooms – but it is not beautiful like the Newport mansions. It is just plain weird. It was the home of the eccentric widow of a guy who made a fortune selling Winchester rifles to the army. She believed that bad things would happen if construction on the house ended, so she just kept building for over 30 years. I think that is what attracted us to the place: it reminded us of our time in Somerville. Non-stop construction as a way of life.

It is also a bit of a time capsule of the 1906 San Francisco earthquake. The earthquake damaged parts of the house (and in fact trapped Mrs Winchester in one of the front rooms for several hours), but rather than repair the damage like any normal homeowner would, she just closed off the damaged rooms and continued building on other wings.

She was tiny – under 5 feet tall – and not well, so the staircases have very low risers – about 4 inches for each step. This makes some of the staircase *very* long. That doesn’t include the staircase that goes nowhere – it just rises to the ceiling and stops. You are left to wonder “what was she thinking?”

Start of the tour

There is very little in the house that is beautiful. One of the exceptions is the stained glass. There isn’t much stained glass on display in the lived-in rooms, but she left an entire storage room filled with Tiffany stained glass that is worth over half a million dollars today.

We visited on a very cold, dank day. It somehow didn’t occur to us that for $30 each we would be getting a tour of an unheated house. By the time it was over we were both thoroughly chilled. If you go, pick a warm day.

Courtyard

We only toured the house. We arrived too late for the basement tour and it was too cold to tour the gardens. I imagine that there is some good stuff that we didn’t see. They also offer a night tour which would be… spooky.

Gift shop

The place is too weird to recommend highly. But if you ever find yourself in San Jose with nothing to do… there it is.

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Alcatraz

We will be leaving the Bay Area in a few days and will be leaving a lot of “wish list” things undone. We aren’t going to drive across the Golden Gate Bridge and we aren’t going to ride the cable cars. But we can cross off Alcatraz because we went there last Sunday.

It was a beautiful day – better than we could hope for, really – sunny, high around 66. Saturday had been very foggy and I was expecting more of that. Which explains why I didn’t take my sunglasses. So I squinted a lot.

The drive from Morgan Hill to Pier 33 on the Embarcadero takes about 70 minutes. We didn’t get off until 8:53 and our ferry left at 10:30, so we were cutting it a little close. Still, not to worry, because there is a parking lot directly across from the pier. We got there, as expected, a few minutes after 10. I queued up to buy a ticket from the self-service machine – the only machine in the lot. And it jammed. After wasting a few minutes seeing if it could be fixed, I gave up, hustled Jett back into the rental car and drove off, madly searching for another parking lot. We found one about two blocks away, parked, hustled back to the pier and queued up to get our prepaid tickets. The line was short, thankfully, because the ferry was already boarding when I got to the window. We made it, but with less than 5 minutes to spare.

Pier 33, with 5 minutes to spare

The bay was calm and the scenery was stunning. We got a nice water view of the Golden Gate Bridge, which I guess is as close as we will get.

Golden Gate Bridge

It is just a 10-minute ride to Alcatraz Island. The signs are left as they were when the prison was closed in 1963. Signs of the 1969 Indian occupation are also still intact.

Welcoming(?) sign

Our ferry, leaving to return to SF

There was a brief introductory speech from a park ranger and a 15-minute film, then a long walk up the hill to the prison.

Alcatraz dock

Climb to the prison

View from The Rock

The path to the prison

Prison wall

The tour of the prison proper is a self-guided audio tour. It was very informative. We saw the cells where the guards were shot in the 1946 prison riot, one of the cells from which the only “successful” escape was made (though it is suspected that all 3 escapees died in the bay, so the level of success is debatable) and Block D where Al Capone and the Birdman spent their days.

Broadway

Grand Central

Visitation booth

Typical cell

The Yard

Isolation

Utility shaft and escape route

Visitor’s entrance

Visitors side of visitation area

Warden’s house (what’s left, anyway)

SF from Alcatraz

The escape cell

The kitchen knife rack

Leaving Alcatraz – something many could not do

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My traditional January cough DIDN’T arrive

Unlike most previous years, I did not hack my way through January. So even though December here was one of the coldest, rainiest ever, and January was cooler than normal, my body seemed to appreciate the lack of 0-degree windchill days and stinging sleet.

Winter in California ends in February, so if I hang in there for a few more weeks, it will be a cough-free winter.

Nice!

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Happy birthday, sucka

Yesterday was my birthday. I got some nice cards and some warm telephone calls. If you called or sent a card… thank you! If you didn’t… I know where you live.

The big fun event of the day was dinner at the Claddagh Restaurant in Gilroy, one of the finest Irish restaurants we have ever found. I have mentioned it before, but it is worth mentioning again. I had the “Irish grill” with salad and garlic mashed potatoes – an assortment of sausages, with a lamp chop and a fried egg, served with some (really) hot mustard on the side. Jett had fish and chips which to my way of thinking is more English than Irish, but it was tasty too.

The big non-fun event of the day was taking the truck in to have the fuel filter replaced. I took it to a GMC dealer, which I knew would jack up the cost and their estimate came in at just over $200: $70 for the part and $145 for labor. Ok, fine, it had to be done. But I also asked them to check the brakes. The phone call later that morning told me that I was right to be concerned: one of the rear rotors was cracked. Damn – another $500! At least that was the thought going through my head as the service manager was talking to me. But, no, it would be more like $900. Ouch! But, again, it had to be done.

I sure miss the Harvard Street Garage. Leo would have done it for under $500, I think.

But when it was time to leave work the service manager called back. Not only was the truck not ready, but further inspection had revealed a leak in the “power boost unit” – whatever that is. It didn’t need to be fixed immediately and it wasn’t a safety issue. Yet. But he suggested that I have it replaced soon. At a cost of $900.

So my big birthday present was about $2,000 in repairs from GMC. Happy birthday, sucka.

Because the truck wasn’t available and because Jett shouldn’t drive at dusk and because I needed the exercise (I still haven’t lost that 10 lbs I gained at Christmas), I walked to the light rail station about a mile away. I wanted to take a close look at this system anyway and compare it to Boston’s Green Line. The quick assessment: it is clean, fast, fairly priced and has oodles of free parking conveniently located near expressways. But it isn’t heavily used, for the reason I previously mentioned: the roads are too damn good.

One surprise was that the fare collection system is basically an honor system. My $2.00 “one ride” ticket was actually a timestamped ticket good for 2 hours. So for two bucks I could ride the system as much as I liked, even getting off, doing some shopping and returning to my car, for the price of a “single ride.” Pretty good deal, I think.

We rode along at about 55 mph. I don’t think the Green Line, on its best day, gets above 40 mph.

I got off at the Santa Theresa station, the southern terminus for the line. This is where a commuter coming from the south would most likely park. The lot is huge and the parking is free. But at 5pm on a Wednesday, the lot was nearly empty.

Here are a few photos I took, plus one of a tree that I saw while walking to the shopping center where I agreed to meet Jett.

The trolley at Santa Theresa

Rush hour on the trolley – about 10 passengers

The nearly-empty Santa Theresa parking lot

Dramatic tree

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Half Moon Bay and a sunset in the Sunset District

Another beautiful day in the bay area. Another day without Jett. Another opportunity to take one of those long drives along winding mountain roads that Jett hates. So I left Morgan Hill around 2pm, drove through Saratoga up into the hills, along Skyline Drive, down to the coast, up CA 1 through Half Moon Bay and Pacifica and into San Francisco, making it just in time to catch the sunset there.

Round trip: 160 miles.

Half Moon Bay Loop

Until I left CA 85 in Saratoga the trip was along familiar roads: it was my usual commute plus a few miles. Saratoga seems like a nice little town, not quite quaint but picturesque nonetheless. It is home to several wineries, including the Mountain Winery, an early Paul Masson home and vineyard.

The hills west of Saratoga were higher and steeper than I expected. I was delayed for about 15 minutes while the police shut the road to set up operations to recover a car that had just gone over the edge. I don’t think I want to know the condition of that driver.

When I reached the summit I turned north on Skyline Drive which pretty much followed the ridge for many miles. The vistas provided would have been awesome if the air quality had been better (we have had 4 consecutive “spare the air” days, which means that burning wood is prohibited). It is hard to tell from these shots, but Silicon Valley and the San Francisco Bay are below.

View of Silicon Valley on a hazy day

I broke off Skyline Drive to take CA 84 to the coast, then followed CA 1 north to Half Moon Bay, site of the Mavericks Invitational, a major international surfing competition. I wanted to see how big the surf actually was (they were forecasting 20-foot breakers for Sunday) and to see how hard it would be to find a place to watch it. My conclusions? The surf that I saw was high, but not scary, and it would be VERY hard to find a place to watch it.

The coast near Half Moon Bay

Breakers

Beach

I drove through Half Moon Bay and into Pacifica, along some very scary cliff roads that will soon be replaced by a tunnel. I tried to find the RV park in Pacifica that was one of the first to grab my attention when I started looking for places to stay (rejected due to expenses and climate concerns), but was unsuccessful. I then broke off of CA 1 and drove north on Sunset Boulevard into San Francisco’s “Sunset District”. I got there just in time to see the sunset and was struck by how many residents made the short walk to the beach to view it. Clearly, people live in the Sunset District because of the sunsets. Big surprise.

A Sunset District sunset

Beach at sunset

Looking south

Almost gone

Final light

Golden Gate Park windmill

I drove a few blocks north, to Golden Gate Park. I had never been and didn’t get an optimal view as it was getting pretty dark. But I was struck by its beauty and would like to return. I was also surprised by the full-size windmill.

The trip home was via I-280 and CA 85. It was uneventful and dark. But I was struck by how quickly San Francisco transitions from densely-populated urban scenery to empty wilderness. There is a sign just south of San Francisco on I-280 that warns of “no services for the next 19 miles.” Pretty amazing, really.

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Carmel, Monterey and 17-Mile Drive

On Saturday the dogs got bored. They said, “Look, Dad – it’s not raining! A nice sunny day, kinda warm temperatures, a full tank of gas… Please, Dad, can we take a ROAD TRIP?”

(Those of you who know my dogs recognize this as pure fiction.  They would never say “please”.)

So I grabbed some water for the dogs (but none for me, which proved to be a mistake), strapped the dogs into the back seat and sallied forth on a trip to Carmel, Monterey and 17-Mile Drive. I plotted a course that would take me south through Gilroy, over to Carmel, along 17-Mile Drive, into Monterey, then back north through a winding mountain pass and up the valley through Morgan Hill. Round trip distance: 145 miles.

Monterey Loop

The dogs were right: it was a nice day for a drive. Crystal clear, brisk, light traffic. The journey to Monterey was carefree, with no problem with directions or traffic. When we got to Carmel we found a place to park the monster truck on a side street and went for a walk. Carmel (or, to the snobbish, Carmel-by-the-Sea) is a sleepy town that appears to offer nothing but art galleries. The dogs and I wandered around for about 40 minutes and did not find any place to get a cup of coffee. The dogs got a water break; I got nothing.

But the pups enjoyed the walk because it seems that people who like art galleries also like canines. There were LOTS of dogs on the street.

Failing to get my coffee, I loaded the dogs back into the truck and went in search of 17-Mile Drive. It was not hard to find as it has its own exit off of CA 1. There is a $9.75 charge to drive the route if you aren’t one of the mega-millionaires who lives there, but it was worth it, just to get the photos (see below). There is a lot of great scenery on 17-Mile Drive. But no coffee.

It took about an hour to drive the 17 miles because we made so many stops. I am happy to report that the dogs enjoyed their first view of the Pacific Ocean and even felt a little salt spray. So Cha-Cha, our little Puerto Rican street waif, has now seen the Caribbean Sea, the Atlantic Ocean and the Pacific Ocean. How many dogs can say THAT?

We next hit Monterey, in search of Cannery Row. And coffee. Didn’t find either. In retrospect we got close as I saw Fisherman’s Wharf, which is very near to Cannery Row. But I was getting a caffeine headache and decided to head back. So we drove up CA 1, over the mountains on CA 152 (Jett would have hated it – lots of turns, including many 15 mph hairpin turns) and down into Gilroy, then up through Morgan Hill and back home.

A good drive. But the coffee I made when I got home was just as good.

One of the iconic cypress trees

17-Mile Drive

A bit of color

A golf course that I can’t afford

Sandy beach

More beach

Surf’s up!

Heather?

Spyglass Hill or Pebble Beach

More rocks and water

A view from the heights

More rocks

Glare

Ghost Tree

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Next up: Temecula

We will be leaving San Jose a month from now, heading down to Temecula. We hope it will be a little warmer and less rainy. To say that the weather in San Jose has been a disappointment would be a gross understatement.

Rain yesterday. Frost warning tonight. High temps in the 40’s and low 50’s for the next week. Not much better than Boston in a good winter.

Temecula is a fairly small city (about 100,000 souls) that has the distinction of being about an hour from LA, an hour from San Diego and an hour from Palm Springs. We will be staying at an RV park that is situated on a golf course. Our site will be on the fairway of hole #3.

Maybe I will finally get to use those clubs.

Of course this means that I need to find another office. And I feel bad that we have barely scratched the surface of things to do in the San Francisco/San Jose area. But it is hard to get excited about doing things when it is cold and rainy.

The locals say that this has been a very unusual winter. Lucky us.

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Shorts on New Years Day

It was actually chilly on New Years Day by local standards.  It may have hit 60 degrees for about 15 minutes before dropping again.  But it had finally stopped raining (the official count of non-rainy days in December: 5) and for a (not so) young man from Massachusetts, that was enough to declare the day to be shorts-worthy.  So I donned my sunglasses, unhinged my folding bike and went for a ride.

Bike path

Bike path

The wind cut right through my sweatshirt, so I didn’t stay out long.  But long enough to declare, to all of you snowbound Yankees, that I wore shorts on New Years Day.  Woo hoo!

I took advantage of the sunshine to take a few pictures of Coyote Valley RV Resort.

Patience at Coyote Valley

Entrance to Coyote Valley

Our neighbors

Pool and hot tub

Office and clubhouse

Just to provide some contrast, here is a photo that I took the Saturday before Christmas when we got stir-crazy and drove to Santa Cruz:

Rainy Santa Cruz

All things being equal, I will take the sunshine.

Particularly if I can wear shorts in January.

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Congestion, or lack thereof

I have now been commuting 14 miles each way to my office for three full weeks. The office itself provides exactly what I need: a fast internet connection and a desk and chair. The people there are friendly, though it is clear that they still consider me a curiosity (why would a software guy need a month-to-month office?). The accountants there never got around to producing a lease, so it is the purest form of tenant-at-will: I can leave whenever I want to go. So that is all working out just fine.

The biggest surprise so far: the commute. No matter when I go into the office or return home, there simply isn’t any congestion.  At least not the kind of grind-your-teeth-and-watch-the-pedestrians-zip-by congestion that snarls Boston for at least four hours each day.  The worst congestion that I have seen was actually on the Saturday before Christmas: cars backed up trying to get into a shopping center.  My commute (via Monterey Road, CA 85 and the Almaden Expressway), has a few traffic lights which typically account for about 5 minutes of the trip time.  But the entire 14-mile commute usually takes less than 20 minutes either way: an average speed in excess of 50mph!  Over 60mph if you take away the traffic signals.  Compare that to my 5.5-mile Cambridge/Medford commute which typically took 30 to 40 minutes for an average speed of about 10mph.

That, on the surface, is very good.  But the other day, while enjoying my congestion-free trip into the office, I heard a news story about how the new San Jose light rail system is one of the least successful new transit lines in the nation, attracting less than 1% of the pool of commuters.  No doubt that the car is still king in California, but there is also no doubt that there is simply no incentive to park my truck and ride the trolley (not that it is really an option – my office is a mile from the nearest station).  The transit stations are in the middle of the freeway and the few riders who I see waiting there look damn cold.  Why leave my warm cab for that?  My truck commute is faster, warmer and cheaper (with free parking at the office and just about everywhere).  Even in downtown San Jose the cost of parking all day is just $7,  In Boston transit is a real option – one that can get you to your destination faster and cheaper than a car.  No chance of that happening here.

So while I admire the lack of congestion and, more generally, the quality of the roads (Storrow Drive would be a cow path here), I can’t help but wonder if Massachusetts is actually being “greener” than California, simply by making car travel so unpleasant that people actually choose to ride public transit.

Now if the MBTA could figure out how to provide a congestion-free commute…

 

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Merry Christmas y’all

No, they don’t say “y’all” out here in California. But maybe we picked up a little Southern Drawl in Texas?

We will be having a quiet Christmas in Patience.  We will sit next to our electric fireplace, sip egg nog and open the presents that surround our tiny tree.

Electric fireplace

Gifts around our tree

Then we will sing a few songs and spend a lot of time thinking about how much we miss y’all.

We hope your Christmas is at least as nice as ours. And we hope you have a great 2013.

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