Tillamook cheese

I always marveled that my sister, who grew up in the heart of America’s Dairyland (Wisconsin, in case you didn’t know), managed to settle down in the one place in the United States that claims to produce better cheese: Tillamook, OR. There is no question that Tillamook cheese is good, but I will leave it to you to decide if it is better than Wisconsin cheese. I can, however, attest to the fact that Tillmook has the same aroma as Wisconsin’s best dairy farming areas. You can’t escape the distinctive odor of cows, manure and silage. It is a bit of Wisconsin, but with mountains.

It is kind of amusing, I think, that we bought a 5 lb block of Tillamook sharp cheddar when we were in Phoenix, then carried it all the way back to Tillamook. Coals to Newcastle.

We visited the Tillamook Cheese Factory yesterday after lunch. I am told that this is the second “most visited” attraction in Oregon, after Crater Lake. I don’t think I would travel hundreds of miles to see it, like I would for the Grand Canyon, say, but if you happen to be in the area (which isn’t likely because there is not much else in the vicinity) is is worth an hour of your time. They offer a self-guided tour of the factory. I saw blocks of cheese very similar to the one in my refrigerator being packaged – probably to restock the shelves in Phoenix.

Packaging Tillamook cheese

They also make ice cream. Ben and Jerry have nothing to worry about, but it is pretty good. I give them high marks for originality: I had a scoop of “Grandma’s Cookie Dough” which was very sweet, with chunks of frosting mixed in. And the waffle cone in which it was served was probably the best I have ever had.

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GTW Hop 30: Canyonville, OR, to Tillamook, OR

240 miles via I-5, OR 22 and US 101. Cumulative distance: 5,344 miles.

GTW Hop 30: Canyonville OR to Tillamook OR

The weather broke enough for us to make the long trek to the coast on Monday. It was a long trip – 5 hours total, with a lunch break – but with the exception of one brief downpour, was mostly done in light rain. There were even a few sunny breaks that didn’t last long, but were welcome nonetheless.

Most of the trip was on I-5, but the last 50 miles were on OR 22 – a narrow, twisty 2-lane road, and US 101 (the Oregon Coast Highway) that wasn’t much better. Jett doesn’t like these roads and kept her eyes closed most of the way.

We stopped for lunch at a riverside rest area just south of Salem. There was a beautiful tree there which displayed well in one of the rare sunny breaks. We also got a rainbow.

Rest area tree

Patience and 18-wheel buddies

Rainbow

We arrived at our destination – the Wilson River RV Park – at dusk. The river was still high but had apparently dropped six feet from Monday’s peak. Debris on the shoreline showed that the water level topped out just a few feet below the RV pads.

Dusk and the high-water mark at Wilson River

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Canyonville, OR

Canyonville is a tiny town nestled in the rugged hills of southwest Oregon. But the city really doesn’t matter because we didn’t see it; we spent all three days resting in the embrace of the Seven Feathers RV Resort, arguably the best RV park we have visited on the GTW.

As I mentioned, it all starts with service. The check-in and escort to the site were the best we have experienced. The entrance/registration portico had the feel of a first-rate resort hotel. The site itself was a perfectly level concrete pad with lush grassy strips on either side with plenty of room for the slides. All sites (nearly 200) were beautifully landscaped, with trees, bushes and manicured mulch. Two sewer connections, front and back, made hooking up the sewer lines a snap. Cable TV, 50-amp electric and sweet water. The perfect site.

The welcoming portico

Seven Feathers

Seven Feathers

Other amenities? A beautiful stream that runs the length of the park, a very nice laundry, a barbeque area, a nice reading room, a beautiful pool with hottub and the most amazing individual bathroom/shower facilities that we have seen anywhere.

Pool

Reading room

Barbeque area

Patience at Seven Feathers

Laundry

Laundry

Bath/shower

The complex includes a full-service truck stop (yes, they actually pumped my diesel when I filled up) with a very nice mini-mart and deli, and a casino that gave Jett a $140 return on a $20 investment. They also had a $14 buffet which was not as good at the Bellagio’s, but was much more economical and quite good.

The whole complex is owned and operated by the Cow Creek Band of the Umpqua Tribe of Indians. Really. I don’t know what the Umpquas did before they got into the casino/RV biz, but they are really good at what they do now.

Bridge with Umpqua plaque

We had two interesting neighbors during our stay. One was an Open Range fifth wheel – the first one we have seen (we have seen two other OR’s but both were travel trailers) and a cute 15-foot ultra-compact trailer.

Another Open Range 5th wheel

Tiny Casita trailer

We enjoyed our stay despite the weather. It rained about 90% of the time, including a fierce storm on Monday that kept us inside all day (expect for the required doggy walks). Not a great few days of weather, but the park was awesome. We were happy that we weren’t on the coast where an 84 mph gust flipped a fifth wheel. We rocked pretty hard at times, but stayed upright.

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Heavy weather

We are still hunkered down at the Seven Feathers casino and RV park in Canyonville, OR. The weather is awful here and worse along the coast. There were gusts of over 80mph all along the Oregon coast today, including one of 98mph at one location – that’s a category 2 hurricane. We felt gusts that I think were around 50mph. Enough to rock the RV pretty good. Now the heavy rain has begun.

We are hoping to get to Tillamook tomorrow, but it depends on whether the storm abates overnight. I called the RV park today and they said the Wilson River was over its banks, but only slightly. They had 40 RVs there that they felt were safe. The river is supposed to peak tonight, then drop tomorrow. We’ll wait and see.

In the meantime we amuse ourselves with books and slot machines. Jett won $140 yesterday, which more than made up for my $40 in losses.

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GTW Hop 29: Redding, CA, to Canyonville, OR

219 miles via I-5. Cumulative distance: 5,104 miles.

GTW Hop 29: Redding CA to Canyonville OR

Yes, folks, we have actually made it to Oregon, the last state that we will visit on the GTW. From here to the end it will be a trip down the coast to San Jose.

I wish I could be confident that we will arrive safely, but the forecast is just plain awful: between now (Sunday) and Tuesday some areas of the Oregon coast will receive over 10 inches of rain, with some flooding of streams and rivers. That makes our intended RV park destination – the Wilson River RV Park on the banks of the Wilson River – a risky choice. Our backup park, on Netarts Bay, in under a high wind advisory, with hurricane-force gusts possible. Neither sounds like a safe option right now, so I will have to watch the weather forecast *very* carefully for the next couple of days.

In the meantime, we are hunkered down at the Seven Feathers Casino and RV Park in Canyonville, OR. This is arguably the best RV park we have seen on the GTW. Spacious sites, beautiful landscaping, a fine lodge, a heated indoor pool and the most amazing bathroom/shower facilities I have seen anywhere, hands down. Not a bad place to be while waiting for the weather to pass.

The route from Redding to Canyonville was very interesting. On a sunny day I am sure it would have been spectacular (I hear that Mt Shasta is a beautiful sight), but it rained most of the way. We didn’t catch even a glimpse of Mt Shasta. We were fortunate to get a sunny break for lunch, at a very nice rest area just south of the Oregon border. We ran into an RV couple there who were headed to Yuma, AZ, for the winter. Both were 83 and were driving a rig that looked new, but in fact was over 10 years old.

Rest area

Patience at rest

Lunch stop

A sunny break

Rainbow

I was surprised at the elevation of the pass over the mountains at the border – it topped out at 4,200 feet. I was expecting no more than 2,500 feet. It is good that we got over it today because the forecast was for snow down to 4,000 feet overnight.

I will talk more about the Seven Feathers RV Park when we leave, but it had a great first impression: the sign at the entrance directed us to the portico. An RV park with a portico at the office? That’s a first. Under the portico, a man was waiting to greet us. He took some notes (my license number and RV type) and handed me a slip to take into the office. It had the feel of a valet parking service. Indeed, once I completed the registration process, the greeter hopped into a golf cart and led us to the site, directed me in and then took the time to explain the hookups. I really didn’t need the help with the hookups, but the individual attention was impressive. It was the best service we have received anywhere.

Approaching the Seven Feathers portico

That’s a good start. Now if only the casino is that friendly…

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More spam

My anti-spam filter is clearly not working. I broke the 2,000 barrier – more than 2,000 spam messages received in the past 24 hours. This is just ridiculous. I am deleting all messages until I figure out how to deal with this. If you post a message and it doesn’t appear, that is the reason. I can’t take the time to separate the wheat from the chaff.

Death to spammers!

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GTW Hop 28: Sacramento, CA, to Redding, CA

167 miles via CA 160, I-5 and CA 299. Cumulative distance: 4,885 miles

GTW Hop 28: Sacramento CA to Redding CA

All but a handful of these miles were on I-5. This was essentially a trip up California’s central valley on a drab, dreary day. I was impressed with how flat the valley is – it reminded me of Kansas. It is far more rural north of Sacramento than south. It probably would have been beautiful on a sunny day, but in the drizzle it was just many miles of gray fields.

We stayed overnight at the Redding RV Park which is right off of I-5 in Redding. The location was convenient and the park is clean, with amenities like a pool and laundry. But the sites are very narrow. It was fine for one night, but I wouldn’t want to stay here much longer.

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Sacramento, CA

I visited Sacramento several times on business in the mid-70s, which is nearly 40 years ago now. Not surprisingly, I hardly recognize the place. But I liked it then and I like it now. It is a clean, medium-sized state capital, similar to Madison, WI, my home town, but with a better climate.

We stayed at the Cal Expo RV Park in north Sacramento. Cal Expo is home to the California State Fair, weekend harness races and a variety of seasonal events (e.g., the “harvest crafts fair” this weekend). The RV park exists primarily to house those attending these events. But nothing was going on while we were here so the RV park was pretty empty. Which was fine with us.

Cal Expo RV with grandstands behind the trees

Patience at Cal Expo

We were tired – a little travel-weary and fighting colds – so we took it easy, mostly. But I felt well enough yesterday to check out the American River Bike Trail nearby and, while doing that, discovered a cute little 9-hole golf course which I played in the afternoon. So last night I was weary from biking and golfing. It was a refreshing kind of weariness.

Campus Common hole 1

No, I didn’t play very well. Thanks for asking. I did the round with a general contractor who was recovering from 5 broken vertebrae and played with crutches. He kicked my ass.

The American River, of course, is where gold was discovered in 1849. I don’t think anyone is panning for gold nowadays, but I have to wonder… were some nuggets missed? Part of me wanted to leave the golf clubs behind and go search for gold.

American River at the 5th tee

On Wednesday morning we packed up the dogs and took a trip into the Old Sacramento historical district. This is a part of town near the river that looks a lot like it did in the late 1800’s, post Gold Rush. It is an area with wooden sidewalks and some pretty interesting shops. I got some kettle corn (can’t resist) and a bag of almond/macadamia brittle that was to die for.

Jett and Grace in Old Sacramento

Old Sacramento

Wooden sidewalks

This was also where the Pony Express began, as I learned by reading the plaque on a statue. I was surprised to learn that the Pony Express was in business for just 18 months and employed just 121 riders – a small, unsuccessful business by modern standards. But an iconic failure.

Pony Express memorial

We are now just 4 days away from Tillamook. We have decided that since the weather is going to be bad (we don’t expect to see the sun for the next 10 days) and there is no town that is all that interesting between Sacramento and Tillamook we are going to do it in 4 short 1-night hops. The longest hop will be today’s at around 170 miles.

Rain we can take. I just pray that we avoid snow.

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Spam

The spam is becoming unbearable. There were over 1,100 spam comments waiting for me this morning. The first 15 minutes of every day are now devoted to deleting spam messages from the blog, which is most decidedly NOT a good way to start the day. I really don’t want to know where I can get tramadol without a prescriptions. And you don’t either.

I would be strongly in favor of a federal law that tars and feathers spammers.

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GTW Hop 27: Kingsburg, CA, to Sacramento, CA

196 miles via CA 99, I-80 and I-5. Cumulative distance: 4,718 miles.

GTW Hop 27: Kingsburg CA to Sacramento CA

This was supposed to be entirely on CA 99, but a wrong turn in Sacramento resulted in a 7-mile error. Oops. But at least we didn’t run into any low bridges.

The 180+ miles on CA 99? Boring, boring, boring. Flat, nearly featureless (unless you consider citrus groves to be a feature) and very bumpy. More evidence of California’s fiscal problems, I suppose.

The big thrill was seeing a sign for the Chowchilla prison. It used to be a women’s prison but is now coed. In any case, it still has a cool name. Chowchilla. Very poetic. Someone should write a song… “How will a girl from Chowchilla find a man to love?” Something like that.

I sniffled all the way to Sacramento. Not one of our better travel days.

I have one week to shake this cold before we arrive in Tillamook. Time for massive doses of Vitamin C?

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