Las Vegas: Everything else

The four days in Vegas that we shared with Sybil were filled with a variety of activities, but eating was the focus:

  • Tuesday night, after collecting Sybil at the airport and getting her checked into both hotels, we had a late night dinner at Rock & Rita’s, a barbeque restaurant at Circus Circus. I wasn’t hungry, but I did take one of their margaritas (ok, nothing special). And of course I had to eat the pulled pork sandwich that Jett couldn’t finish.
  • For Wednesday lunch we dined at American, a deli-style restaurant in (where else?) the New York New York hotel/casino. We chose this establishment because it offered breakfast all day, which is what Jett wanted.  I had a very nice Reuben.  We dined near a huge bas-relief sculpture of the continental US that hangs from the ceiling.  It made us realize how far we have traveled – Massachusetts was waaaaaaaaaaaay over near the kitchen.
  • Thursday evening, after basking in the sun for a while (and enduring the gusty breezes) we tested the dinner buffet at one of the Fremont St casinos – can’t remember which one.  It was a very fine buffet for $15 each.  Sybil liked the crab legs.  We all had prime rib.  Jett said their fried chicken was superb – a close second to the chicken we had at Dollywood earlier in the trip.
  • Friday lunch was at the Bellagio buffet.  This was simply stupendous.  We stayed for two hours and sampled maybe 10% of the offerings.  Their scallop ceviche was wonderful and the carved flank steak and turkey breast were both very nice.  Jett gushed over the breakfast sausages.  I really like the bread pudding and caramelized peaches that I chose for dessert.

Obviously, we didn’t starve.

Another activity was gambling.  As I noted earlier, we are not big-time gamblers, but we did our bit to keep Las Vegas afloat.  But to illustrate how small-time we are, I offer this little anecdote.

After putting $10 in a slot machine at the Wynn and losing half of it, I went to the cashier to redeem my $5 voucher.  She looked at it, looked me straight in the eye and with a deadpan expression said “Would you like large?”

We also enjoyed the usual assortment of street performers.

One of the “statue” street performers

Sybil with Elvis

Bas-relief map at New York New York

Inside Luxor

Mandalay Bay

Sybil basking in the (almost) warm sun

MGM pool

Sybil pool photo op

The Fremont Street Experience

Faux Eiffel at Paris

Bellagio lobby

Bellagio water show

The girls at Bellagio

The girls inside Bellagio

The Wynn

Sparky and Sybil at the Wynn

Poker room at the Wynn

Wynn lobby

Wynn interior courtyard

Wynn restaurant and courtyard

Sybill in the MGM lobby

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Las Vegas: Shows

Jett and I were in Vegas in 2005 but did not attend any of the shows because we are cheap. As much as we love Shania Twain’s music, we would rather hear it for free on the radio – or pay $10 for a CD that we can keep for years – than shell out $300 for a pair of tickets so that we can see her in person for 90 minutes from 200 feet away.

And we probably wouldn’t have seen any shows on this trip if not for the extraordinary generosity of Jett’s son, Devin. Besides arranging the MGM Grand stay for Sybil, he also gave us 3 tickets to two ton-notch shows: KA, a Cirque du Soleil production at the MGM Grand, and Le Reve, at the Wynn.

Now that we have actually seen a couple of shows I can comment like I am an expert.  First, are they as good as the hype?  Yes.  We were not disappointed.  Are they as good as Broadway shows?  In their own way, yes, but it is an unfair comparison.  You don’t find Phantom of the Opera in Vegas and you don’t find KA in New York.  Phantom is dramatic and KA is acrobatic.  Different cities, different audiences.  But the Vegas shows, while lacking dramatic storylines, are indisputably dramatic in a circus sort of way (we found ourselves holding our breath at both) and thoroughly entertaining.

First, KA. You can click on the link to get all the details, but the general idea is this: imperial twins, a brother and sister, are separated by an attack from a rival tribe of archers. They suffer through a series of ordeals and adventures – and find new loves – before being reunited.

Not much of a story, but the presentation is incredible. First, I was surprised by the size of the theater – almost 2,000 seats – and the elaborate stage which includes bamboo-like scaffolding from floor to ceiling. This scaffolding is integrated into the play by providing places for the archers to launch their attack.

The true star of KA is the stage. It is simply amazing. The space rises nearly 100 feet above the stage level, if there were a stage (which there isn’t, for much of the production). Apparently the stage pit drops 50 feet below the stage level, creating a total drop of about 150 feet. The main “stage” is a huge hydraulic platform that rotates, tilts and basically transforms itself in each of the scenes, becoming a beach in one and an icy cliff in another. In the most breathtaking scene it tilts to be nearly vertical to serve as a mountain wall and, as the archers attack, “arrows” (actually steel posts) appear on the surface and provide bars on which the performers may swing and twirl. Doing acrobatics, without safety harnesses, nearly 100 feet in the air, is truly breathtaking.

There are other acrobatics – most notably two guys doing a “wheel of death” act – and some other amazing tricks from the set, including a very dramatic boat-in-a-storm scene. But, oddly, our favorite scene was a very serene hand-puppet act in which the boy twin and his protector create hand shadows. I have never seen hand shadows done this well. You simply have to see the cat lapping milk from a bowl to believe that it is all done with just 4 hands.

Photography was prohibited in the KA theater so I didn’t get any shots inside. I got one of the KA ad on the MGM hotel itself.

KA ad on the MGM Grand

Second, Le Reve. This production reportedly cost over $100 million to produce, which is a lot, but much less than the $220 million production cost of KA. The story line of this show is very simple: a man proposes to a woman who is unsure. She sleeps on it and has a dream in which various other suitors appear to woo her. The suitors include some comic magicians and a few monsters. She eventually wakes and, realizing that her real suitor is better than a magician or a monster, accepts.

As with KA, one of the big stars of this show is the stage. It is also hydraulic and undergoes many transformations. But this is essentially a show that features aquatic acrobatics and it does this superbly. Many of the scenes involve actors rising from beneath the surface of the water, so there are obviously underwater entry and exit points. One scene involving Ester William-like “legs above the surface” synchronized choreography has the swimmers under water for nearly 5 minutes, so there must be underwater breathing capability. And while some of the scenes involve a dry platform, others require deep dives, so the platform can very quickly and quietly raise and submerge.

Like the KA theater, this one rises nearly 100 feet into the air (actually 82 feet, as I found out later). In this theater the dome is a major entry and exit point – many actors drop down from the ceiling or are raised to the roof to exit. It is on the lines that drop from the ceiling on which the most incredible acrobatics are performed. In some cases couples engage in a variety of twisting, spinning movements while dangling 40 or 50 feet above the surface. Falling from there might not kill, but it would certainly hurt. And in some scenes actors are raised to the dome while being held only in wrist grips.

I give these actors a lot of credit for courage. I couldn’t do it.

One big difference between KA and Le Reve is the theater. While the KA theater is huge, the Le Reve theater is in-the-round and had a more intimate feel. We were fortunate enough to have aisle seats right next to one of the three non-water entry/exit points, so we got a very close view of some of the gymnast/actors.

Jett and Sybil before the show

Lobby poster

Photography was allowed before and after the show, so I can give you a few shots of the theater.

The watery stage before the show

The theater top

Curtain call

After the show we met two of the actors in the gift shop. We got a photo of Sybil with them.

Sybil with magician and acrobat

Bottom line: both shows were incredible. Thanks, Devin!

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Las Vegas: Circus Circus

I think I had better do the Las Vegas report in pieces.  First up: Circus Circus, our home base.

There are several quality RV parks in or near Las Vegas, but the KOA park at Circus Circus is the only one right on The Strip. We really didn’t expect to spend a lot of time in the park, so its reputation as an urban parking lot really didn’t deter us. As it turns out, we got a very nice spot next to a large grassy plot with trees – our own private park. And the park has a swimming pool that is nearly as nice as the one at the hotel, so I would have to say that the park turned out to be a pleasant surprise.

Patience at her private park

The park even had some palm trees and beautiful sunsets.

Sunset at Circus Circus

Since Las Vegas was our first stay of more than 3 days since Livingston, we took the opportunity to receive some mail and packages. We got restocked on the dog’s medicine and Jett’s coffee pods. Open Range sent us a replacement cable for the broken slide. And we got our accumulated regular mail, consisting of magazines and bills.

The hotel was also “better than expected.” The original plan is that Jett’s sister, Sybil, would stay at Circus Circus because Travelocity offered a package which gave her a room for 4 nights for only $160 over the cost of the airfare. A hotel room for $40 a night on The Strip? Sold!

But Jett’s son, Devin, who has traveled to Las Vegas a lot on business, said Circus Circus was a “fleabag.” He pulled some strings and scored a room at the MGM Grand for Sybil. The Circus Circus reservation couldn’t be canceled as it was included in the package, so when Sybil arrived on Tuesday she had to check into two hotels. Besides, we thought it would be nice to have a hotel room to use as a vacation from the RV. As it turns out, we used the room just one night. But I will say that the room was very nice and the bed was very comfortable. I have seen some fleabags (I’m thinking of the Rodeway Inn in Madison, WI) and Circus Circus is emphatically not one. It is not as nice as the MGM Grand, for sure, but well worth $40 a night.

Circus Circus has an indoor amusement park and free circus acts for entertainment, making it a good choice as a family hotel. And, like every other hotel on The Strip, it has a large casino and many shopping and dining options.

I had forgotten how large these Vegas casinos are. Though the RV park is directly adjacent to the hotel, the walk from our site to Las Vegas Blvd (aka The Strip) was probably close to half a mile. It seems silly to take a car from one place to another within the boundaries of a hotel, but we did it several times. Especially when it turned cold.

And it did turn cold. It was near 90 degrees when we arrived on Tuesday, but had fallen into the 70s by Thursday. Today (Saturday) the high was in the low 50s and there are frost warnings tonight.

Brrrrr.

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Time flies when you’re having fun…

Three days without a post! Did you miss me?

I am working on a mega-post now to document the last 4 days in Vegas. We did a lot and saw a lot. I have the photos prepped; now I just have to figure out how to tell the story. Might have to be multiple posts.

I will give you the general outline:

  • We arrived on Tuesday afternoon, got set up in the KOA RV park at Circus Circus, then had to run to the airport to pick up Jett’s sister, Sybil.
  • On Wednesday afternoon we toured the city a bit, had lunch at New York, New York and went to ogle at Luxor. Did some gambling.
  • On Wednesday night we saw KA, the Cirque du Soleil production at MGM Grand. Did some gambling
  • On Thursday we spent some time at the MGM Grand pool, then went down to Fremont Street for dinner and to experience the Experience. Did some gambling.
  • On Friday we did lunch at the Bellagio, then saw Le Reve at the Wynn. Did some gambling
  • On Saturday (today) we got Sybil to the airport, went to Costco to pick up some stuff, then crashed.  We were exhausted.

It may sound like we are Big Time Gamblers, but nothing is further from the truth.  We mostly played slots and mostly 1-cent and 25-cent machines.  We lost a little, but not so much that we have to beg for diesel to finish the trip.

Details to follow…

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GTW Hop 24: Williams, AZ, to Las Vegas, NV

220 miles via I-40, US 93, I-515 and I-15. Cumulative distance: 4,149 miles.

GTW Hop 24: Williams AZ to Las Vegas NV

This hop started at 7000′ and 60 degrees and ended at 2000′ and 83 degrees. Downhill the whole way, including some sections that were so downhill that Jett closed her eyes.

Over the edge?

The entire route was beautiful in a rugged, desolate sort of way.

Coming down from Williams

Interesting roadside rocks

More mountains

Mountains

The approach to Hoover Dam

The road that replaced the Hoover Dam segment was nearly as great an engineering feat as the dam itself. Unfortunately, you can’t really see the dam from the bridge as the walls are high. But I think that was done intentionally; the road comes with high wind warnings, so having drivers rubbernecking while getting blown about sounds like a recipe for disaster.

There are glimpses of Lake Mead, plus you get a nice view of Las Vegas as you enter from the south.

Lake Mead

Coming into Vegas

Stratosphere and my noble profile

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Grand Canyon

I have seen photos of the Grand Canyon. I have now taken a few (ok, more than a few) myself. But even photos can’t capture the awesomeness of this place; you simply have to experience it yourself. I’m sure it ranks high on every list of the Greatest Places on Earth and it deserves to be there. It is #1 on my list.

Bur first… getting there.

Our initial plan was to stay in the RV park at Grand Canyon Village, right in the Grand Canyon National Park, and the next time we go we will do that as it would allow us to explore in a more leisurely fashion. But this time we opted to take the Grand Canyon Railway from Williams to the rim and had just over 3 hours to explore. It wasn’t enough to fully satisfy, but it was probably for the best. Three hours of jaw-dropping wonder can leave the jaw sore.

The train ride was a nice break from driving. Two hours to the rim – 65 miles – and two hours back. We opted for first class which gave us roomier accommodations, free soft drinks and snacks and more attention from the PSA. It was pricey – the list is $140 for a round-trip ticket (vs $75 for coach) – but was worth it for a once-in-a-lifetime experience.

It began with a “Wild West Show” that consisted of 4 guys humiliating one of the passengers and some banter about cheating about poker. It ended with a gunfight in which one of the cowboys was killed. Twice. The redid the gunfight so that passengers could get good photos of the action. Lame, but entertaining.

Twice-dead gunfighter

Sparky with gunfighter and horse. Sparky on the right.

As it turned out, the gunfighters (even the dead one) reappeared on the return trip to rob the train. The sheriff eventually appeared, too, to arrest the gunfighters. Again, lame but entertaining.

The train robbery

The train itself was very comfortable. It was pulled by a single diesel/electric locomotive and had six passenger coaches and one cafe car. We had a nearly-empty first class coach – there were 10 people in a car that seats over 100. Our PSA was a wonderfully droll woman who was working on her Master’s degree in Chemistry, was dating the fireman and had a daughter who was the PSA in the next car.

Did I mention that Williams is a *very* small town?

The train

Our coach

The hospitality table

The Grand Canyon depot

Jett on the train

Both of us, boarding to return

We saw some wildlife along the way – a herd of mule deer and an elk at the rim. But no coyote, which is what Jett really wanted to see.

Elk at the depot, through a pane of glass (look closely)

Once at the canyon we mostly walked the rim, but took time to have lunch at El Tovar, the very fine hotel in Grand Canyon Village. I had yellow-fin tuna with a prickly pear cumberland sauce that was superb, if surprisingly spicy – like blackened tuna, but with a glaze instead of a rubbing. Jett had a taco that was equally superb. The service was first-rate (Jett said it was “classic 5-star service”) and so was the view.

The view from our El Tovar table

Next to the hotel was Hopi House, which was a replica of a Hopi house (duh). It is a souvenir shop now.

El Tovar

Hopi House

The Canyon. Words don’t suffice. I will just make a couple of observations:

  1. It is amazing that there aren’t more deaths. While the pathway is pretty level and paved, there are many places where you can easily walk right to the edge of oblivion. One slip and you’re a goner. As our PSA said, “If you fall, be sure to keep your eyes open… it is beautiful all the way down. And it is the last thing you will ever see.”  There is a book – Over the Edge: Death in the Grand Canyon that chronicles all of the known deaths. It is updated every January.
  2. The Walk of Time is interesting.  This is a section of the path to the east of the depot where some rocks recovered from the canyon walls are displayed in order of age.  The oldest is about 2 billion years old.  The walk is on a scale where 1 step equals 1 million years, so it goes on for quite a distance.
  3. The bottom of the canyon – the Colorado River – cannot be seen from the south rim at Grand Canyon Village.  I was told that if you walk far enough east you will get a glimpse, but I did not have enough time.  I find it amazing that as deep as it appears from the rim, it is actually even deeper.

That is all I have to say about the Grand Canyon.  Here are some photos, including a couple that prove that we were actually there.

Jett at the rim

Sparky at the rim

Grand Canyon

Grand Canyon

Grand Canyon

Grand Canyon

Grand Canyon

Grand Canyon

Grand Canyon

Grand Canyon

Grand Canyon

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Williams, AZ

We went up to the Grand Canyon yesterday, reducing our bucket lists by one. It was a beautiful day, a great adventure and an incredible place. But it deserves its own post, which will take a little time to assemble. So I will devote this post entirely to Williams.

We chose to stay at the Grand Canyon Railway RV Park which, as the name implies, is adjacent to the depot for the train that would take us to the Grand Canyon. It was convenient, but it was also a very nice RV park. Another attraction: it had a kennel. We ended up not using the kennel, opting instead to let the dogs lounge in Patience for 9 hours while we traveled to the Grand Canyon, but the fact that a kennel was available was one of the reasons we chose the place.

Patience at the Grand Canyon Railway RV Park

Grand Canyon Railway RV Park, with tracks to the left

Good things about the campground? Clean, well-designed, well-maintained, nice dog walk, nice sheltered common area with picnic tables and an “eternal flame” fire pit. Not-so-good things about the campground? No pool (not that it mattered with the chilly weather), the playground was across a road, the laundry was small and expensive and the railroad tracks were active during the night – there is a regular 5am freight train (think My Cousin Vinny).

Common area

Dog walk

And cold. That isn’t the campground’s fault, but it made the stay memorable. Especially the first night when we ran out of propane (well, not exactly out) and I had to step outside at 5am in 25-degree temperatures to switch the tanks. This was the first campground on the GTW where we woke up to frost.

The other reason for choosing a campground in Williams was Williams itself. Its main street is a fragment of old US 66 and is dripping with all the nostalgia that “Route 66” conjures up for Baby Boomers. It has done a pretty good job of maintaining the spirit of the time, though not so well as Hot Springs. Much of Route 66 in AZ no longer exists, having been replaced by I-40. Williams seems to take some pride in being one of the last towns to be on the old Route 66.

Williams declaration of pride

Old Route 66

The town is expensive. I am speaking mostly of diesel fuel ($4.49 per gallon) and food ($12 for a burger, $18 for a continental breakfast for us); I can’t speak to the pricing of the motels that line the main street (which is the old Route 66) – more than a dozen of them, most of which look like they should rent by the hour. We did enjoy the (expensive) food we consumed at Cruiser’s Cafe 66 which is a quality restaurant and a souvenir shop that sells shlock, but very interesting and high-quality shlock. We also enjoyed the animated, joke-telling bear across the street. Typical line: “Sorry about your wife. I didn’t realize that her beehive didn’t have any honey.”

Cruiser’s Cafe 66

Animated bear

Williams is a small town. We ran into the campground clerk at the Safeway and the cafe waitress at the laundry. If you live here, don’t do anything embarrassing because everyone will know about it.

The architecture is interesting, some authentic native american shops exist (and I encountered a Navajo at the gas station), and there are little scenes all around that catch your eye. An interesting place, but very small. A half-day visit is recommended.

Williams bank

Vintage Bronco

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GTW Hop 23: Sun City, AZ, to Williams, AZ

170 miles via I-17 and I-40. Cumulative distance: 3,929 miles.

GTW Hop 23: Sun City AZ to Williams AZ

I knew that this hop would involve some climbing as there is no way to explain a 20-degree change in temperature in less than 200 miles without some serious altitude adjustment. But I didn’t expect the climb we got: we topped out at over 7,000 feet (starting from about 1,200′ in Sun City). The truck had to do some heavy lifting on this hop. There were signs warning about engine overheating. If you did this in the summer, with temperatures above 100 degrees, then there is no doubt that you would have to give your engine some rest along the way. Our temperatures were mostly in the 70s and the engine still heated to more than 250 degrees – a good 30 degrees higher than it has been at any other point on this GTW.

We stopped along the way to eat lunch at a rest area that, like every other rest area we have seen in Arizona, was beautifully landscaped and white-glove clean.

The rig taking a well-deserved rest

Rest area landscaping, with Patience in the background

Rest area garden

Jett didn’t enjoy the climb. Already convinced that we are going to die a horrible death, the steep downhills and dire warnings about overheating engines and failed brakes just fed her fears. She was too busy praying to get many shots of the rugged mountains, but she was entranced by the earlier, flatter landscapes north of Phoenix. Lots of cacti there.

Field of cacti

Despite Jett’s fears, we made it to Williams without incident. We are staying three nights in the RV park behind the Grand Canyon Railway Hotel – a very nice hotel at which we are considered guests.

Grand Canyon Railway Hotel

Hotel pool

Most of the guests in the RV park are traveling in either top-of-the-line motorhomes or very nice fifth wheels. However, there is one guest who is reminiscent of the Beverly Hillbillies. His tiny trailer was festooned with milk crates, all strapped on with miles of bungees. Never seen anything like it.

The Beverly Hillbillies?

We took a walk around the property at sunset (about 5:30 – Arizona is not on daylight savings time, so it gets dark early here). I always knew that I cast a long shadow, but this one was ridiculous.

Long shadow

There are two reasons that we are in Williams. One is to get a taste of old Route 66 (which doesn’t seem to exist anymore in Williams, having been supplanted by I-40) and the Grand Canyon Railway, which we will ride up to the Grand Canyon on Monday. I will report on both of those more completely later, but I have a couple of photos to offer of the train depot – we watched the train pull in at 5:30pm.

The depot, decorated for Christmas

The arriving Grand Canyon train

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Sun City, AZ

We didn’t see anything in Tucson because we hated the RV park there and got out as quickly as we could. We also didn’t see much of Phoenix, but for the opposite reason: we loved the park so much that we didn’t want to leave its gentle embrace.

I don’t think we will run into another park with a deeper sense of community than Rainbow’s End in Livingston.  But the Paradise RV Park in Sun City comes in a close second. Everyone we met there was friendly, engaging and just downright happy. I had to wonder if they were putting something in the water.

Like Rainbow’s End, most of the residents of Paradise are owners and most of the owners are snowbirds. We happened to be there on November 1, which is the official start of the winter season. There was a big “Welcome back to Paradise!” sign at the office and we noticed a lot of cleaning activity going on, presumably by newly arrived snowbirds. It seems like a very good place to while away the winter.

Another indication that this park caters to long-term residents: the office is closed on weekends. I have no idea how we would have checked in if we had arrived on Saturday.

Paradise is larger than Rainbow’s End – about 1,000 sites versus about 300. Because it is larger it can support more activities. It has a wonderful pool, with water aerobics classes every morning and water volleyball every afternoon. The community center also sports lawn bowling courts, shuffleboard courts, tennis courts and a pickleball court (like table tennis played while standing on a very large table; see this video). There are also two large card rooms, a very large library, a post office, a woodworking shop, a ceramics shop, a sewing room and probably several other activities rooms that I didn’t see. It also has a cafe that is open for breakfast and lunch (weekdays only) and a huge laundry. There are lawn bowling leagues, tennis leagues, shuffleboard leagues, golf outings and who knows what else – a VERY active community. There are over 30 activities available every day.

The pool where we basked on Halloween

Tennis courts

Lawn bowling

The grounds are well-maintained. The common area has a very nice pond and gazebo between the lawn bowling and the tennis courts. Very relaxing. A good place to read or write. And because it is so dry, there are very few insects.

The pond

Common grounds

The residents also take pride in their sites. Many have beautiful shrubs, trees or cacti.

Cactus

Flowering shrub

Of course there are a few who go over the top. Our neighbor had a very gaudy Halloween display, which, because this is an over-55 park, was most definitely NOT for the benefit of the trick-or-treaters.

Neighbor

Patience basking in the sun

The park also has some other long-term residents: rabbits. Not jackrabbits, but furry cottontails. The dogs loved them.

Bunny

Most of the long-term residents live in park model trailers, but a few are in motorhomes. There were a couple of interesting ones that we saw here. One looked like a stretch limo. The other was a Freightliner chassis with a motorhome body – a very odd hybrid of Class A and Class C.

“Limo” motorhome

Freightliner hybrid

We really enjoyed our three days here and wish we could stay longer. Today we drive to Williams, AZ, our base for our Grand Canyon trip. While we are looking forward to seeing the Grand Canyon, we are not very eager to move into colder temperatures. We expect Williams to be 20 degrees colder than Sun City.

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Passport America

We have been having a good time here in Sun City, AZ. The weather has been great. We lounged by the pool on Halloween. Never done that before.

I will give a full report tomorrow, but I thought I would say a few words about Passport America. We are using our Passport America membership to stay here, which means that 4 nights in this beautiful resort is costing us less than $100. The discounts vary from campground to campground, and the limitations vary even more, but the basic idea is that you can stay a few days for about half the normal rate. We have now used PA to stay at about half the places we have been and it has saved us a bundle.

The quality of the campground varies tremendously, as evidenced by Whispering Palms and Paradise: one was horrible, one was wonderful. But if you look carefully at the campground websites (and about 90% now have websites), you can usually get a pretty good idea of what you are getting.

I think the annual membership fee for PA is $44. We have saved that many times over in just seven weeks of travel. You can recoup the membership fee in one week, easily.

Recommended.

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