GTW Hop 22: Tucson, AZ, to Sun City, AZ

133 miles via I-10 and US 60. Cumulative distance: 3,759 miles.

GTW Hop 22: Tucson AZ to Sun City AZ

We opted for a good night’s sleep, vacated the “Whispering” Palms park and hot-footed it up to Sun City. I found that Phoenix is snowbird central: it has numerous mega-parks that cater to long-term occupants. They look more like trailer parks than RV parks. Many have over 1,000 sites and one has nearly 2,000. Because they are designed for long-term residency, vary few pull-through sites exist. I finally convinced Jett that a back-in would be fine as we would be staying for 4 nights. I thought I opted for one of the “small” parks – just 144 sites. But that was 144 transient sites; it has many more long-term sites. I haven’t seen a full count, but you can estimate from the map. Our site number – 2126 – suggests that the park might contain nearly 1,000 sites.

Paradise RV Park site map

We are looking forward to our time here as we think it will give us a taste of the “snowbird” lifestyle. I will report on it fully after we leave.

The trip itself was easy until we got to Phoenix. We did see some interesting geological formations along the way.

Picacho Peak(?) on the way to Phoenix

Traffic in Phoenix was very heavy and the drivers there could compete with Boston or New York on the asshole scale. I was trying to get over to the right lane on Route 60 and put my turn signal on. I let two cars pass (they love to pass on the right in Phoenix), then saw a small gap and started to move over. But the approaching car would not stop to let me in. And when she passed, she gave me the finger! Like I had done something wrong. Unbelievable.

Good thing I didn’t have the shotgun in the cab.

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GTW Hop 21: Las Cruces, NM, to Tucson, AZ

280 miles via I-10.  Cumulative distance: 3,626 miles.

GTW Hop 21: Las Cruces NM to Tucson AZ

This was another hop that was easy to navigate: get on I-10 west and keep going until you get there. The only difficulty was that the ramp closest to the RV park was closed (which we were told when making reservations), so we had to get off a little farther away and travel a few more local streets. No big deal. The hardest part of the trip was turning into the RV park. More on that later.

Arizona is beautiful in a stark, dusty kind of way.  We thought that west Texas had a lot of nothing, but southern Arizona has even more of nothing.  We stopped at two rest areas – one to eat and to walk the dogs and another to check out a cut on Grace’s paw that she apparently got at the first one. The first rest area had several prominent signs warning that “poisonous snakes and insects inhabit this area,” so we had a few moments when we wondered if she had gotten bitten. But I think it was just a sharp rock.

Dog walk area

Cactus, railroad and mountains

The second rest area had some incredible rock formations.

Split rocks at rest area

Rest area 2

Lots of rocks

Shortly after leaving Las Cruces we encountered a border patrol checkpoint. Jett was hoping that they would pull us aside and check for Mexicans traveling with us, but they just waved us through.

Border patrol checkpoint

Our destination in Tucson was the Whispering Palms RV Park. We picked it on short notice because our planned destination rejected us because Cha-Cha was a “dangerous breed.” Anyone who knows Cha-Cha will find the thought of him being dangerous hilarious. But it meant that I had to pick a park quickly and this one looked… ok.

Mistake.

The first problem was the driveway. It was a very tight turn just getting into the park. I made it, but it wasn’t easy. Then we noticed that many of the RVs were older. This is obviously a park inhabited mostly by long-term residents who are living on the cheap. The word “shabby” came to mind – the first park that I would describe that way. Another first: there was no working public bathroom. The registration person was “hopeful” that it would be fixed by Saturday – 5 days hence. We didn’t need it, fortunately. The site itself, though a pull-through, was very tight and had no picnic table or any other kind of amenity.

Whispering Palms entrance

Whispering Palms

But wait… it gets worse! We have concluded that the palms here are not really whispering; you just can’t hear them over the road traffic, the train traffic or the jet planes. It was noisy, noisy, noisy. Impossible. We are leaving today. It was cheap ($16.50) but not worth it. I wouldn’t stay here again at any price.

Patience next to the noisy street

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Las Cruces, NM

We stayed two nights at La Hacienda RV Resort in Las Cruces. It is very neat and clean and has a lot of amenities. It has a great community room, a hot tub (unusual), a very nice laundry (which we used) and the longest dog park we have seen yet. It is also pricy – $45 per night. I’m not sure it is worth it as the sites are barely adequate for our rig (and had no table), the cable connection was unusable (we used our antenna) and some of the rules were just bizarre. For example, they demanded that guests refrain from setting foot on any unused site because they take great pride in how well they groom the fine clay after every departure. I half expected to see Monk at the registration desk.

The tableless site at La Hacienda

The sunken dog walk

Naturally, Jett and I took great pleasure in tramping across one to do laundry. Rebels.

It did, however, have a great view of the dramatic mountains near Las Cruces. That looks like a painted backdrop (see below), but I assure you that those are real mountains.

A butt view of Patience

The sunset also produced some appropriately spooky lighting.

Spooky sunset

We really had just one tourist foray in the Las Cruces area and that was to Mesilla, just outside the city. It is an old spanish town that it pretty well preserved due to the fact that the railroad bypassed it in the 1870’s and it pretty much died on the vine then. But it was a favorite hangout of Billy the Kid, Kit Carson, Pancho Villa and other icons of the wild west. Several of the buildings have plaques documenting the history of the building and they all seem to relish the gruesome deaths of those who formerly resided there.

Plaque on home of Billy the Kid’s lawyer

The town square was quite scenic, with many authentic and colorful adobe buildings. It was anchored by a very picturesque cathedral. The square was hosting a crafts and farmer’s market (featuring locally-grown pecans and pistachios) while we were there.

Mesilla square

Mesilla shop

Where Billy the Kid was tried

The cathedral

I was very interested in seeing the White Sands Missile Range, but those plans were thwarted by a need to get Cha-Cha to a vet to check out a rash that he had developed. Finding a vet on Sunday was tricky, but, fortunately, Las Cruces had a PetSmart with a Banfield Animal Hospital attached. The vet thinks it is a minor allegic reaction and is nothing to worry about.

We still have one extra day to spend before we get to Las Vegas and we will probably spend it in Tucson. The forecast there is for highs near 90 for the next 3 days. So while those of you back east are dealing with wind, rain and flooding from Hurricane Sandy, we will be watching the news at the poolside bar.

We will be with you in spirit.

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Mid-term report card

As we are now more than half done with the GTW, I thought this would be a good time to assess how it has gone so far. Kind of a mid-term report card. I will start with two subjects that relate to the work we did prior to the start of the trip:

  • Preparation: A-
    • Jett and I both did a fabulous job of getting the house ready to rent.
    • Putting the RV in NH for the summer was simply brilliant.  It was both fun and great training for us.
    • Our packing of the RV was darn near perfect, mostly thanks to Jett. I have the clothes I need.  I have the tools I need.  We have a few things we haven’t used yet but overall I am very happy with the collection of “stuff” we brought with us.
    • I got enough training in driving the rig that I could do so competently.
    • We both got our computers well prepared and our finances arranged so that we wouldn’t skip a beat on anything important.
    • We should have paid more attention to the tires.  We really had no reason to think that we would have blowouts, but we should have found out what the correct tire pressures were and checked them more religiously.  And it was a major error to leave without getting the pressure of the interior tires on the truck checked.
  • Planning: A

    • The general plan, to drive one day and stay 2 nights, has worked well.
    • The target distance between stops – around 200 to 220 miles – has worked very well.
    • The selected campgrounds have been, with few exceptions, very nice.

The next two subjects concern how well the rig has done so far:

  • Truck: B+
    • The truck has proven to be capable of pulling the RV.
    • It provides a comfortable ride for all of us, dogs included.
    • The hauling mileage has been disappointing: around 9 instead of the target of 10 mpg.
    • The bad battery gave us a few gray hairs.
  • RV: C
    • The RV has provided comfortable living quarters.
    • The interior systems – lights, refrigerator, furnace, fireplace, stove, air conditioner, TVs – have all performed flawlessly.
    • But we have had intermittent problems with both the front landing jacks and the rear stabilizers.
    • The #2 slide has been sticky and one of the cables finally popped.
    • The tires were horrible – the blowouts were shocking and dangerous.

These two subjects grade me alone as I have been responsible for the budgeting and the blogging:

  • Budget: Incomplete
    • I won’t know until I run the numbers at the end of the month how well we are adhering to our budget.  I know that we are totally screwed on the “maintenance” category as we have spent way more on tires and repairs than I expected.  But other categories may not be so bad.  I will report on this in a few days.
  • Blogging: A-
    • I have blogged nearly every day.
    • I have taken some darn good photos to include.
    • I sometimes feel that with just a little more effort I could have made it even better.

Of course, the final grade in “blogging” will come from you, the readers.

These two subjects rate Jett and my team skills with the rig:

  • Setup/Teardown: A-
    • It took some practice, but we are getting really good at it.
    • There were a couple of times when Jett saved my butt by catching something I forgot – chocks still on, doors not locked.
  • Driving/Navigation: B-
    • We haven’t had anything close to a collision with another vehicle (knock on wood).
    • The use of Google maps has generally been successful, but the GPS conflicts are mighty confusing.  We have regretted relying on the GPS several times.
    • That telephone pole/fence incident the first day out is a big blemish.
    • Ditto the tire blowout from hitting the curb.

The final subjects describe how we are doing in this new lifestyle:

  • Health and Wellbeing: B
    • We have generally been healthy, though Jett continues to have sporadic stomach pains and the driving hasn’t been kind to either my hands (arthritis) or back.
    • We are eating pretty well.  We have home-cooked meals about 80% of the time.  The rest of the time we either dine at restaurants (mostly Cracker Barrel) or get subs or take-out from KFC.  We have not been to Burger King or McDonalds at all.  When on the road we mostly eat sandwiches that Jett prepares before we go.
    • I have been snacking too much and exercising too little.
    • I can’t convince Jett that a nature hike is a fun activity.
  • Companionship: B+
    • We haven’t killed each other yet, so we have exceeded our expectations. And most of yours, too, I suspect.
    • There have been some heated arguments, but we are assured by other full-timers that this is very normal.
  • Enjoyment: B
    • The first two weeks, with the blowouts and the telephone pole incident, was a close approximation of hell.
    • We have had a lot of fun since.

We have gotten approval for a long-term stay at an RV park in San Jose and Jett is looking forward to that.  I think we will still be enjoying the lifestyle when the travel ends and we set up a more static home there, but we will see.  It is most definitely a work in progress.

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GTW Hop 20: Pecos, TX, to Las Cruces, NM

253 miles via I-20 and I-10. Cumlative distance: 3,346 miles.

GTW Hop 20: Pecos TX to Las Cruces NM

We stayed one night at the TRAPark in Pecos. This is an Escapees Rainbow Park, but it is a mere shadow of Rainbow’s End. We missed the social hour, which is a shame, but we had a good night’s sleep in the midst of the oil fields.

View from our TRAPark site

Patience at TRAPark

TRAPark

As I mentioned, it appears that this park has a lot of long-term residents, some of them oil field workers. It is not a beautiful park and we had no interest in staying for more than one night. But the price was right ($16.50) and I saw a beautiful sunrise.

Sunrise in Pecos

On this hop we left the prairie and re-entered the mountains. The transition, like the transition into prairie west of San Antonio, was abrupt; we traveled for miles on a treeless and nearly featureless plain and then, suddenly, a little 100-foot bump appeared. That bump was quickly followed by a series of increasingly larger bumps. Within 10 miles we were deep into rugged, jagged hills.

Post-prairie hills east of El Paso

We also climbed more than I expected on this hop: we topped out at over 4800′ elevation.

We stopped for lunch at a rest area shortly after we entered the Rio Grande Valley. Though it wasn’t quite New Mexico (which bills itself as “The Land of Enchantment”), it is either a tribute to the accuracy of their slogan or a symptom of our travel-addled brains that we found the rest area – and the area in general – to be enchanting.

Jett was entranced by the open-air bathrooms with ceramic wall mosaics. I liked the trees and the arid landscape.

Open-air bathroom

Bathroom mosaic

Rest area art shot

The picnic shelters showed some imagination, too.

Picnic shelter

Picnic teepee

And, though we couldn’t really see the Rio Grande, we knew that we were looking into Mexico on the other side of the valley. This was the first time either of us had seen the border between Mexico and the US.

Looking into Mexico

Jett was thrilled by the numerous Border Patrol vehicles on the road in the valley (“my heros!”). We thought El Paso was visually very interesting, with its colorful buildings and red mountain backdrop, but we were too busy threading our way through traffic to get photos.

We finally reached the New Mexico border (hasta la vista, Texas!) and had an easy drive into Las Cruces. We had no trouble finding the RV park and we got set up in no time. Then we went to dinner at Cracker Barrel.

Have I mentioned that we are becoming Cracker Barrel addicts? Love those chicken and dumplins (sic).

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Cafe Malta

I am not above unabashedly plugging a restaurant run by Jett’s nephew.  But I wouldn’t do it if I wasn’t truly impressed. Cafe Malta on West William Cannon Drive in Austin doesn’t look like much from the outside – a smallish storefront tucked between a beauty salon and a roll-your-own cigarette place in a small strip mall. But walk in the door and you will find a small, clean, tastefully decorated restaurant/bar of understated elegance.  Some of the understatement is due to the use of kraft paper for tablecloths – unusual, but it works and is very practical.  Kids love it and it is better than napkins for those business lunch sketches.

Jett and I had brunch there last Sunday at noon.  We met up with Jett’s nieces, Jessica (co-owner of the restaurant) and Aimee, and Jessica’s two lovely children, Nate and Havia.  Jett’s nephews, Nick and Mark, were working tables and didn’t get to socialize much.

I had a Bloody Mary (made with cucumber vodka, I am told) to start and it was superb – spicy and tangy and strong enough to wake me up.  I chose the Croque Madame for the entree, mostly because I have never heard of this dish before, but also because I love ham.  I wasn’t disappointed. Two perfectly-done “over easy” eggs atop a mound of shaved ham with a cheese/bechamel sauce, toasted on French bread.  Delicious!  I finished with a good strong cup of black coffee and a tasty bread pudding, with a crusty toasted top and a delectable moat of chunky applesauce.  Jett had another dish with the same applesauce and raved about it.  Nick shared the secret of the applesauce with us – an apple-based liquor from the Middle East.  I can’t remember the name, but that’s my sense of self-preservation at work: if I told you he would have to kill me.

If we had just walked in off the street I would be talking about a “hidden gen” as this restaurant is much more than it first appears.  I hope they do well.

But I don’t have any photos.  I guess both Jett and I were having so much fun catching up with family that we have not seen for many months and savoring the brunch that we forgot to take pictures.  I guess you will just have to go there and take your own.

It will be worth the trip, guaranteed.

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GTW Hop 19: San Angelo, TX, to Pecos, TX

218 miles via US 67 and US 285.  Cumulative distance: 3,093 miles.

GTW Hop 19: San Angelo TX to Pecos TX

I don’t have much to say about San Angelo because we were there for just 20 hours. Because we had difficulty getting the front landing jacks to work, I didn’t unhitch. But I resolved that problem and decided this morning that it would be wise to top off the diesel tanks – there is a lot of nothing in west Texas – and get some oil (I thought the truck was a quart low, though that turned out to be not the case). Jett reminded me that we needed some C-clamps (to keep the clothes in the closet in place when traveling) and, hey, since I was going out, why not get a couple more books on tape (actually, CD)? So I unhitched and went shopping. Then I had to hustle back to beat the noon deadline for getting out of Dodge. Or San Angelo.

Our campground for the night was the San Angelo KOA, a.k.a. the Concho Valley KOA. It is clean and well-maintained, has a pretty nice dog park and is operated by a very friendly couple. Many of the sites were treeless, which might make it very hot. But not last night. The temperature dropped into the 40’s overnight and the forecast high for today was 53. Windy, too. We definitely aren’t in San Antonio anymore.

Patience at KOA San Angelo

The dog park

The trip to Pecos was uneventful. We started seeing cacti growing along the side of the road and also spotted our first windmill farm. The entire route was dotted with oil and natural gas production facilities and when we got to the campground in Pecos it was obvious that some of the long-term residents were oil field workers. It’s nice to know that we aren’t importing it all.

Windmill farm

And it was coolish the entire way. Now – 6pm CDT – it is 58 degrees. There is a light frost warning out for the Pecos area tonight.

I sure hope we can get to the coast without encountering snow.

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GTW Hop 18: San Antonio, TX, to San Angelo, TX

216 miles via I-10, US 83, US 87 and US 67. Cumulative distance: 2,875 miles.

GTW Hop 18: San Antonio TX to San Angelo TX

This was supposed to be a hop to Ozona, TX, which is little more than a couple of truck stops and an RV park. But the RV park was full, so Plan B was to go further north, to San Angelo. This was probably a more interesting trip as it was mostly on smaller roads, as opposed to 200 miles straight west on I-10. And San Angelo is a real city, with several RV park options. So, as Plan Bs go, not a bad one.

We are nearing the halfway point of the trip. The plan is for 35 hops, so we are over halfway there, hop-wise. And we will reach the halfway point tomorrow in terms of miles. But today I think we crossed an important geographical boundary: we entered the prairie. In just a few miles we transitioned from a landscape covered with trees to one almost entirely treeless. And we picked up the prairie winds too; I just about got blown over while refueling.

The prairie

We also climbed about 1,200 feet, to over 2,000′ altitude, which didn’t help with the gas mileage.  By the time we get to Las Cruces on Saturday we will be above 3,000′.

We stopped for lunch in a little podunk town along the way, in the dusty parking lot of what appeared to be a boarded-up old saloon. But I believe that this was actually a functioning(?) business enterprise; just not open for lunch. I, for one, would not eat or drink there EVER.

The Branding Iron

We have had a few problems with Patience. Besides the snapped cable (which did not prevent us from bringing the slide in this morning or deploying it this evening), we also had difficulty deploying the rear stabilizers yesterday or the front landing jacks today. I managed to overcome both problems, but we are getting dangerously close to ding-a-day territory again.

Maybe it is just the season, but tonight Patience seems haunted. First the park was swarmed with hundreds of blackbirds at dusk (truly like a scene from The Birds). Then we started hearing banging noises, like a metal panel was being whipped about in the wind. But when I investigated (twice) I could find nothing loose, nothing flapping. No weird noises outside, just inside.  The breeze wasn’t even blowing very hard. Very strange.

Spooky birds

Hopefully the spirits will let me get some sleep tonight because tomorrow is another travel day.

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San Antonio, TX

San Antonio is yet another place where we wish we could have stayed longer.  For one thing, I would have liked to have tried the golf course that is adjacent to the RV park.  I learned last night that the cost for 9 holes there is just $17 – including cart!  It would probably be twice that much in Massachusetts.

There are also a number of other attractions that we didn’t get to that would have been worth an hour or two.  We did get to the Alamo, the River Walk and the River Center shopping center.

I can dispose of the River Center pretty quickly: it is like every other multi-level shopping mall you have ever seen, only darker.  I would suggest to the owners that they improve the lighting because I felt like I was in the Bat Cave.  NOT recommended.

The Alamo was not a disappointment, but only because I wasn’t expecting much.  Most of the complex is long gone, including most of the buildings, walls and courtyard where most of the fighting occurred.  What is left is the Mission Church (which is the building you think of as the “Alamo”), but that was just a sanctuary where the women and children hid during the battle.  Portions of the Long Barracks remain, but it has been through so many reinventions over the years that I can’t tell how “original” it is.  It houses the main museum now.  In general, I think the trustees have done a mediocre job of telling the story of the Alamo.

The Alamo church

We ran into a guide who struck me as having been on the job too long: he paced as he talked and seemed bored with the subject matter. We left before he was done.

The Long Barracks

The guide

The grounds were very nice. None of the vegetation was there in 1836, of course, but the Alamo is now a serene city park. I particularly liked the cactus, the tree with limbs so long they needed supports, and the old well.

Alamo gardens

Well and tree in need of support

Bottom line on the Alamo: if you want to see a battlefield, go to Gettysburg.

The big hit of the day was the River Walk. This is the finest urban park that I have ever seen. More intimate than Central Park, more beautiful than the best that Paris can offer, it stands alone. Actually, it is both large and intimate. We experienced only the loop of the river in downtown San Antonio, but the park goes on for miles (and is being extended another 14 miles).

A typical River Walk scene

A shady section of River Walk

One of the many River Walk restaurants

A footbridge on the River Walk

The River Walk has many scenic footbridges, some of which have appeared in movies. The Arneson Theater, a gorgeous amphitheater with the river separating the stage from the audience, was the setting for the swimsuit competition in Miss Congeniality.

The Arneson Theater

We took one of the barge rides on the river (senior ticket price: $6 – it is good to be old). This was a very nice tour for a very low price. It was nearly an hour long and the guide provided much interesting detail about the history and architecture of San Antonio.

The barge

One of the many fountains

Entrance to the main channel

Greenery scenery

The Pan American friendship thing

Convention Center from the river

We had lunch at Rita’s on the River, primarily because they have really nice T-shirts. We still like their T-shirts (we got another while we were there), but the food was disappointingly bland. More surprising, the margarita, billed as “San Antonio’s best” was also bland. It was neither fresh nor tasty. A huge disappointment. But the ambiance was great.

The fountain at Rita’s on the River

We took the bus into town, which worked great on the way in, but not so great on the return. We waited 45 minutes for a bus, which got Jett a little cranky. Then I made matters worse by getting us off too early. We had to walk about a quarter mile to get to the RV park. She wasn’t amused.

Our home for the two night in San Antonio was the Traveler’s World RV Resort, a sister property to the park we inhabited in Austin. This park, like the one in Austin, was very clean and well-maintained. The pads were gravel, but were very carefully raked – the rake marks were very prominent. The park was nearly full (and we need to vacate our spot today because they only had a pull-thru site for 2 days). I already mentioned that a golf course is next door and I already regret not using it.

Traveler’s World

We went shopping last night for some necessities, but also for cushions for the swivel gliders – we love them, but the seat gets hard after a while. This shopping trip is notable because it was south of the RV park, making it the most southerly point in our GTW. Today we began to move north and west, toward Oregon.

Our plan was to spend one night in Ozona, which is basically a truck stop and RV park on I-10 in the middle of nowhere. Fortunately I had the good sense to call for reservations and was told that they had no vacancy. As there is *nothing* near Ozona, I had to reroute the next hop. Our destination now is San Angelo.

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GTW Hop 17: Austin, TX, to San Antonio, TX

80 miles via I-35. Cumulative distance: 2,659 miles.

GTW Hop 17: Austin TX to San Antonio TX

It seems like there is an inverse relationship between the length of the hop and its difficulty. This was another case of a route that should have been simple being rather difficult. Part of the problem was that we planned a stop (noted by the red spot on the map) to see if we could get the frayed slide cable fixed. But we missed the turn to the RV dealer and had to make a Y-turn on a residential street. That is never fun. And, of course, they could do nothing; they need to get the part from the manufacturer. Swell.

Then, because we didn’t spend as much time as we planned at the dealer, we had to kill 90 minutes. We parked at a truck stop and hoped we could get a good breakfast. But the truck stop restaurant was more of a take-out and the food did not look appetizing, so we walked across the street to a Krispy Kreme and got some breakfast sandwiches there that were equally disgusting. Jett read and I worked on yesterday’s post (thanks, Verizon – your hotspot is working great).

The Krispy Kreme

Killing time with the big trucks

When we got to San Antonio we encountered another battle between Google map and GPS. Google wanted us to come in from the south via I-10 while the GPS wanted us to stay on I-35 and come in from the north. When we got to the split I opted for GPS and held my breath. It took us down a couple of streets that were too small for comfort (and we did brush a tree branch on the way, but only lightly). Fortunately, the small street section lasted less than a mile and we arrived safely, but with our nerves frayed nearly as much as our slide cable.

Speaking of which, it snagged when we were putting the slide out and snapped. We now have a broken cable. I will be on the phone today with Open Range to see how we can get a replacement.

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