More spam

My anti-spam filter is clearly not working. I broke the 2,000 barrier – more than 2,000 spam messages received in the past 24 hours. This is just ridiculous. I am deleting all messages until I figure out how to deal with this. If you post a message and it doesn’t appear, that is the reason. I can’t take the time to separate the wheat from the chaff.

Death to spammers!

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GTW Hop 28: Sacramento, CA, to Redding, CA

167 miles via CA 160, I-5 and CA 299. Cumulative distance: 4,885 miles

GTW Hop 28: Sacramento CA to Redding CA

All but a handful of these miles were on I-5. This was essentially a trip up California’s central valley on a drab, dreary day. I was impressed with how flat the valley is – it reminded me of Kansas. It is far more rural north of Sacramento than south. It probably would have been beautiful on a sunny day, but in the drizzle it was just many miles of gray fields.

We stayed overnight at the Redding RV Park which is right off of I-5 in Redding. The location was convenient and the park is clean, with amenities like a pool and laundry. But the sites are very narrow. It was fine for one night, but I wouldn’t want to stay here much longer.

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Sacramento, CA

I visited Sacramento several times on business in the mid-70s, which is nearly 40 years ago now. Not surprisingly, I hardly recognize the place. But I liked it then and I like it now. It is a clean, medium-sized state capital, similar to Madison, WI, my home town, but with a better climate.

We stayed at the Cal Expo RV Park in north Sacramento. Cal Expo is home to the California State Fair, weekend harness races and a variety of seasonal events (e.g., the “harvest crafts fair” this weekend). The RV park exists primarily to house those attending these events. But nothing was going on while we were here so the RV park was pretty empty. Which was fine with us.

Cal Expo RV with grandstands behind the trees

Patience at Cal Expo

We were tired – a little travel-weary and fighting colds – so we took it easy, mostly. But I felt well enough yesterday to check out the American River Bike Trail nearby and, while doing that, discovered a cute little 9-hole golf course which I played in the afternoon. So last night I was weary from biking and golfing. It was a refreshing kind of weariness.

Campus Common hole 1

No, I didn’t play very well. Thanks for asking. I did the round with a general contractor who was recovering from 5 broken vertebrae and played with crutches. He kicked my ass.

The American River, of course, is where gold was discovered in 1849. I don’t think anyone is panning for gold nowadays, but I have to wonder… were some nuggets missed? Part of me wanted to leave the golf clubs behind and go search for gold.

American River at the 5th tee

On Wednesday morning we packed up the dogs and took a trip into the Old Sacramento historical district. This is a part of town near the river that looks a lot like it did in the late 1800’s, post Gold Rush. It is an area with wooden sidewalks and some pretty interesting shops. I got some kettle corn (can’t resist) and a bag of almond/macadamia brittle that was to die for.

Jett and Grace in Old Sacramento

Old Sacramento

Wooden sidewalks

This was also where the Pony Express began, as I learned by reading the plaque on a statue. I was surprised to learn that the Pony Express was in business for just 18 months and employed just 121 riders – a small, unsuccessful business by modern standards. But an iconic failure.

Pony Express memorial

We are now just 4 days away from Tillamook. We have decided that since the weather is going to be bad (we don’t expect to see the sun for the next 10 days) and there is no town that is all that interesting between Sacramento and Tillamook we are going to do it in 4 short 1-night hops. The longest hop will be today’s at around 170 miles.

Rain we can take. I just pray that we avoid snow.

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Spam

The spam is becoming unbearable. There were over 1,100 spam comments waiting for me this morning. The first 15 minutes of every day are now devoted to deleting spam messages from the blog, which is most decidedly NOT a good way to start the day. I really don’t want to know where I can get tramadol without a prescriptions. And you don’t either.

I would be strongly in favor of a federal law that tars and feathers spammers.

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GTW Hop 27: Kingsburg, CA, to Sacramento, CA

196 miles via CA 99, I-80 and I-5. Cumulative distance: 4,718 miles.

GTW Hop 27: Kingsburg CA to Sacramento CA

This was supposed to be entirely on CA 99, but a wrong turn in Sacramento resulted in a 7-mile error. Oops. But at least we didn’t run into any low bridges.

The 180+ miles on CA 99? Boring, boring, boring. Flat, nearly featureless (unless you consider citrus groves to be a feature) and very bumpy. More evidence of California’s fiscal problems, I suppose.

The big thrill was seeing a sign for the Chowchilla prison. It used to be a women’s prison but is now coed. In any case, it still has a cool name. Chowchilla. Very poetic. Someone should write a song… “How will a girl from Chowchilla find a man to love?” Something like that.

I sniffled all the way to Sacramento. Not one of our better travel days.

I have one week to shake this cold before we arrive in Tillamook. Time for massive doses of Vitamin C?

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GTW Hop 26: Boron CA to Kingsburg CA

180 miles via CA 58 and 99. Cumulative distance: 4,522 miles

GTW Hop 26: Boron CA to Kingsburg CA

If you have been following this blog since the early planning stages, you will notice that we have deviated from our planned route in a major way. The plan called for us getting to Oregon via Reno and northeast California, east of the Sierras. But the weather forecast for that area was iffy; I-80 just west of Reno got buried in over two feet of snow on Saturday night, the day before we were to leave Vegas. So we opted for Plan B: going through Barstow and up the west side of the Sierras. That route is a little longer but safer, weather-wise.

The first leg of Plan B took us to Boron, CA, where we stayed just one night. The second leg brought us to Kingsburg, CA, near Fresno, where we planned to stay two nights. However, Viking RV Park proved to be less than we expected – small and noisy (trains so close that the RV shook). Whispering Palms now has competition in the “Worst RV Park on the GTW” award. We are leaving today and hope to spend 3 nights in Sacramento. That works out fine in my view because I think Sacramento is more interesting than Fresno.

Tight site at Viking

Close call for the truck

Narrow Viking roads


If only I didn’t have a cold. I don’t look forward to driving three hours today on 3 hours sleep. I hope Sacramento will be a recuperative stop.

This hop was very interesting in terms of geography. We started out in the high desert in Boron, at about 2,000′ elevation. We passed by Edwards Air Force base, on the edge of a mountain range that sported thousands of wind turbines. We climbed to over 4,000′ elevation as we passed through these rugged mountains, then dropped sharply to the verdant valley where Bakersfield is located. The trip from Bakersfield to Kingsburg was level and straight, passing through citrus orchards and vineyards. Quite a contrast from the Boron desert. The elevation of Kingsburg is just over 300 feet, so we are nearly back to sea level.

Rugged mountains approaching Bakersfield

Wind turbines at Edwards AFB

One nice thing about dropping several thousand feet and have a long, level stretch of highway: we did it at 10 mpg! That’s a first.

We were too tired to cook last night, so I stopped in at the closest pizza place in Kingsburg to pick up dinner after filling up the truck. It happened to be Corsaro’s Family Pizza. I got a pizza with chicken and artichokes (Jett’s favorites) and some chicken tenders. The pizza came with bread sticks.

Watch out, White Sport: you have competition. The pizza ranked among the best we have ever had. The breadsticks were just flat out the best ever. And the service was first-rate: they took the order efficiently, kept me informed of the progress, provided me with a free glass of ice water while I waited and delivered the order to my table when it was ready. They even offered to carry it out to my truck for me!

So if you ever get to Kingsburg, be sure to have pizza at Corsaro’s. Highly recommended.

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GTW Hop 25: Las Vegas, NV, to Boron, CA

193 miles via I-15. Cumulative distance: 4,342 miles.

GTW Hop 25: Las Vegas NV to Boron CA

This hop involved long stretches of arrow-straight highway cut through desert. Starkly beautiful, but boring after 30 minutes. And lest you think it was hot, I will tell you that the outside temperature never broke 60 degrees. A sunny but very cool day.

We stopped for lunch at a rest area in California (yes, we have made it to California! Woo hoo!). It was one of the dirtiest, most poorly maintained rest areas that we have encountered. I think that it our first tangible experience with the California state budget deficit.

Our origin was Las Vegas, one of the busiest, brightest, most entertaining places on earth. Our destination was Boron, CA, home to… the world’s largest open-pit borax mine (yes, folks, we finally discovered where Boraxo comes from) and the Twenty Mule Team Museum. It doesn’t seem to have much else. Not that we wanted to go exploring because it was COLD. It dropped into the low 20’s last night and our water hose froze.

Our overnight home was the Arabian RV Park, a dusty little RV park on the edge of Boron. It didn’t have much to offer, but we really didn’t care. The price was right: $20. We will be on our way to Fresno soon.

Setting up in the Boron desert

Patience at Arabian RV Park

Abandoned building across the street from our site

Boron is on the edge of the Edwards Air Force base, the secondary shuttle landing site. I suppose if we had been here a couple of years ago we would have gotten a good view of a shuttle coming home.

The chill has gotten to me. I am now coming down with a cold. I sure hope I shake it before Thanksgiving.

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Las Vegas: Everything else

The four days in Vegas that we shared with Sybil were filled with a variety of activities, but eating was the focus:

  • Tuesday night, after collecting Sybil at the airport and getting her checked into both hotels, we had a late night dinner at Rock & Rita’s, a barbeque restaurant at Circus Circus. I wasn’t hungry, but I did take one of their margaritas (ok, nothing special). And of course I had to eat the pulled pork sandwich that Jett couldn’t finish.
  • For Wednesday lunch we dined at American, a deli-style restaurant in (where else?) the New York New York hotel/casino. We chose this establishment because it offered breakfast all day, which is what Jett wanted.  I had a very nice Reuben.  We dined near a huge bas-relief sculpture of the continental US that hangs from the ceiling.  It made us realize how far we have traveled – Massachusetts was waaaaaaaaaaaay over near the kitchen.
  • Thursday evening, after basking in the sun for a while (and enduring the gusty breezes) we tested the dinner buffet at one of the Fremont St casinos – can’t remember which one.  It was a very fine buffet for $15 each.  Sybil liked the crab legs.  We all had prime rib.  Jett said their fried chicken was superb – a close second to the chicken we had at Dollywood earlier in the trip.
  • Friday lunch was at the Bellagio buffet.  This was simply stupendous.  We stayed for two hours and sampled maybe 10% of the offerings.  Their scallop ceviche was wonderful and the carved flank steak and turkey breast were both very nice.  Jett gushed over the breakfast sausages.  I really like the bread pudding and caramelized peaches that I chose for dessert.

Obviously, we didn’t starve.

Another activity was gambling.  As I noted earlier, we are not big-time gamblers, but we did our bit to keep Las Vegas afloat.  But to illustrate how small-time we are, I offer this little anecdote.

After putting $10 in a slot machine at the Wynn and losing half of it, I went to the cashier to redeem my $5 voucher.  She looked at it, looked me straight in the eye and with a deadpan expression said “Would you like large?”

We also enjoyed the usual assortment of street performers.

One of the “statue” street performers

Sybil with Elvis

Bas-relief map at New York New York

Inside Luxor

Mandalay Bay

Sybil basking in the (almost) warm sun

MGM pool

Sybil pool photo op

The Fremont Street Experience

Faux Eiffel at Paris

Bellagio lobby

Bellagio water show

The girls at Bellagio

The girls inside Bellagio

The Wynn

Sparky and Sybil at the Wynn

Poker room at the Wynn

Wynn lobby

Wynn interior courtyard

Wynn restaurant and courtyard

Sybill in the MGM lobby

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Las Vegas: Shows

Jett and I were in Vegas in 2005 but did not attend any of the shows because we are cheap. As much as we love Shania Twain’s music, we would rather hear it for free on the radio – or pay $10 for a CD that we can keep for years – than shell out $300 for a pair of tickets so that we can see her in person for 90 minutes from 200 feet away.

And we probably wouldn’t have seen any shows on this trip if not for the extraordinary generosity of Jett’s son, Devin. Besides arranging the MGM Grand stay for Sybil, he also gave us 3 tickets to two ton-notch shows: KA, a Cirque du Soleil production at the MGM Grand, and Le Reve, at the Wynn.

Now that we have actually seen a couple of shows I can comment like I am an expert.  First, are they as good as the hype?  Yes.  We were not disappointed.  Are they as good as Broadway shows?  In their own way, yes, but it is an unfair comparison.  You don’t find Phantom of the Opera in Vegas and you don’t find KA in New York.  Phantom is dramatic and KA is acrobatic.  Different cities, different audiences.  But the Vegas shows, while lacking dramatic storylines, are indisputably dramatic in a circus sort of way (we found ourselves holding our breath at both) and thoroughly entertaining.

First, KA. You can click on the link to get all the details, but the general idea is this: imperial twins, a brother and sister, are separated by an attack from a rival tribe of archers. They suffer through a series of ordeals and adventures – and find new loves – before being reunited.

Not much of a story, but the presentation is incredible. First, I was surprised by the size of the theater – almost 2,000 seats – and the elaborate stage which includes bamboo-like scaffolding from floor to ceiling. This scaffolding is integrated into the play by providing places for the archers to launch their attack.

The true star of KA is the stage. It is simply amazing. The space rises nearly 100 feet above the stage level, if there were a stage (which there isn’t, for much of the production). Apparently the stage pit drops 50 feet below the stage level, creating a total drop of about 150 feet. The main “stage” is a huge hydraulic platform that rotates, tilts and basically transforms itself in each of the scenes, becoming a beach in one and an icy cliff in another. In the most breathtaking scene it tilts to be nearly vertical to serve as a mountain wall and, as the archers attack, “arrows” (actually steel posts) appear on the surface and provide bars on which the performers may swing and twirl. Doing acrobatics, without safety harnesses, nearly 100 feet in the air, is truly breathtaking.

There are other acrobatics – most notably two guys doing a “wheel of death” act – and some other amazing tricks from the set, including a very dramatic boat-in-a-storm scene. But, oddly, our favorite scene was a very serene hand-puppet act in which the boy twin and his protector create hand shadows. I have never seen hand shadows done this well. You simply have to see the cat lapping milk from a bowl to believe that it is all done with just 4 hands.

Photography was prohibited in the KA theater so I didn’t get any shots inside. I got one of the KA ad on the MGM hotel itself.

KA ad on the MGM Grand

Second, Le Reve. This production reportedly cost over $100 million to produce, which is a lot, but much less than the $220 million production cost of KA. The story line of this show is very simple: a man proposes to a woman who is unsure. She sleeps on it and has a dream in which various other suitors appear to woo her. The suitors include some comic magicians and a few monsters. She eventually wakes and, realizing that her real suitor is better than a magician or a monster, accepts.

As with KA, one of the big stars of this show is the stage. It is also hydraulic and undergoes many transformations. But this is essentially a show that features aquatic acrobatics and it does this superbly. Many of the scenes involve actors rising from beneath the surface of the water, so there are obviously underwater entry and exit points. One scene involving Ester William-like “legs above the surface” synchronized choreography has the swimmers under water for nearly 5 minutes, so there must be underwater breathing capability. And while some of the scenes involve a dry platform, others require deep dives, so the platform can very quickly and quietly raise and submerge.

Like the KA theater, this one rises nearly 100 feet into the air (actually 82 feet, as I found out later). In this theater the dome is a major entry and exit point – many actors drop down from the ceiling or are raised to the roof to exit. It is on the lines that drop from the ceiling on which the most incredible acrobatics are performed. In some cases couples engage in a variety of twisting, spinning movements while dangling 40 or 50 feet above the surface. Falling from there might not kill, but it would certainly hurt. And in some scenes actors are raised to the dome while being held only in wrist grips.

I give these actors a lot of credit for courage. I couldn’t do it.

One big difference between KA and Le Reve is the theater. While the KA theater is huge, the Le Reve theater is in-the-round and had a more intimate feel. We were fortunate enough to have aisle seats right next to one of the three non-water entry/exit points, so we got a very close view of some of the gymnast/actors.

Jett and Sybil before the show

Lobby poster

Photography was allowed before and after the show, so I can give you a few shots of the theater.

The watery stage before the show

The theater top

Curtain call

After the show we met two of the actors in the gift shop. We got a photo of Sybil with them.

Sybil with magician and acrobat

Bottom line: both shows were incredible. Thanks, Devin!

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Las Vegas: Circus Circus

I think I had better do the Las Vegas report in pieces.  First up: Circus Circus, our home base.

There are several quality RV parks in or near Las Vegas, but the KOA park at Circus Circus is the only one right on The Strip. We really didn’t expect to spend a lot of time in the park, so its reputation as an urban parking lot really didn’t deter us. As it turns out, we got a very nice spot next to a large grassy plot with trees – our own private park. And the park has a swimming pool that is nearly as nice as the one at the hotel, so I would have to say that the park turned out to be a pleasant surprise.

Patience at her private park

The park even had some palm trees and beautiful sunsets.

Sunset at Circus Circus

Since Las Vegas was our first stay of more than 3 days since Livingston, we took the opportunity to receive some mail and packages. We got restocked on the dog’s medicine and Jett’s coffee pods. Open Range sent us a replacement cable for the broken slide. And we got our accumulated regular mail, consisting of magazines and bills.

The hotel was also “better than expected.” The original plan is that Jett’s sister, Sybil, would stay at Circus Circus because Travelocity offered a package which gave her a room for 4 nights for only $160 over the cost of the airfare. A hotel room for $40 a night on The Strip? Sold!

But Jett’s son, Devin, who has traveled to Las Vegas a lot on business, said Circus Circus was a “fleabag.” He pulled some strings and scored a room at the MGM Grand for Sybil. The Circus Circus reservation couldn’t be canceled as it was included in the package, so when Sybil arrived on Tuesday she had to check into two hotels. Besides, we thought it would be nice to have a hotel room to use as a vacation from the RV. As it turns out, we used the room just one night. But I will say that the room was very nice and the bed was very comfortable. I have seen some fleabags (I’m thinking of the Rodeway Inn in Madison, WI) and Circus Circus is emphatically not one. It is not as nice as the MGM Grand, for sure, but well worth $40 a night.

Circus Circus has an indoor amusement park and free circus acts for entertainment, making it a good choice as a family hotel. And, like every other hotel on The Strip, it has a large casino and many shopping and dining options.

I had forgotten how large these Vegas casinos are. Though the RV park is directly adjacent to the hotel, the walk from our site to Las Vegas Blvd (aka The Strip) was probably close to half a mile. It seems silly to take a car from one place to another within the boundaries of a hotel, but we did it several times. Especially when it turned cold.

And it did turn cold. It was near 90 degrees when we arrived on Tuesday, but had fallen into the 70s by Thursday. Today (Saturday) the high was in the low 50s and there are frost warnings tonight.

Brrrrr.

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