GTW Hop 15: Bossier City, LA, to Livingston, TX

176 miles via I-20, US 79 and 59 and TX 146. Cumulative distance: 2,359 miles.

GTW Hop 15: Bossier City LA to Livingston TX

This hop, except for the first 16 miles, was entirely on roads with traffic lights and crossing traffic. Jett didn’t like it at all, especially when the speed limit – even on 2-lane roads in relatively congested areas – rose to 70 mph when we crossed into Texas. And with no Obama signs to be seen anywhere, it was clear that we were not in Massachusetts anymore.

But the roads were actually easy to drive, the traffic wasn’t heavy and the scenery was relaxing – rolling hills and a mix of fields and patches of trees. No forest, really.

Our destination was Rainbow’s End, the home park of the Escapees RV Club. It is where our mail is being forwarded, so we will pick up our mail tomorrow. And we hope to learn more about this fascinating retirement community for full-time RVers.

I should mention that the temperature the entire way was in the 80’s and setting up in Livingston left me soaked in sweat. At 10pm it was still in the high 70’s. A thunderstorm did not do much to cool things off.

Jett is in her element.

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Bossier City, LA

Some stops – such as Hot Springs – turn out to be better than expected. Others – like Bossier City/Shreveport – balance that out by being disappointments. We were so unthrilled with Bossier City that we left after just one night, instead of the planned two.

Because I have so little to report on Bossier City, let me catch you up on a couple of other things.

First, the truck has been starting fine. I was a little worried, when I replaced the battery, that it would be a waste of money, but it seems to have done the trick.

Second, the mouse is gone. Oh… I didn’t mention the mouse? Ever since we left NH we have been been hearing little feet on the roof. At first I thought it was birds, then possibly a squirrel. But we had found a dead mouse in the front basement when we were preparing to leave NH and when I found additional droppings later I was forced to conclude that we had a hitchhiker with us. When Jett found droppings under the kitchen sink we knew we had to take action. So we bought some mouse traps in Memphis and placed two in the basement area and one in the kitchen. I baited them with cheese (which shows how little imagination I have) and – voila! – we caught one in Hot Springs. I was too much of a softie to kill it, so I walked it over to the other side of the stream and released it into the woods. It was nearly dead and coated with some combination of sweat and/or cheese grease (it had been a hot day and the cheese kind of melted), but once he realized that he was out of the trap he burrowed under the leaves and disappeared.

So watch out, Arkansas – there is a NH mouse on the loose, ready to breed with your local mice. A new race of supermouse is on the way.

Back to Bossier City. Apparently Shreveport/Bossier (pronounced bo-shur) City is the Atlantic City of Louisiana. It has numerous casinos – I counted five and there are probably more. Most are along the Red River and have riverboat motifs. But Diamond Jack’s Casino puzzles me. I can see from the satellite view in the Google map that the casino is in a dry-docked riverboat. But you would never know that from the inside. What you get in the casino is three stories of windowless rooms. Absolutely no riverboat charm or charm of any other kind, for that matter. It is, without question, the darkest, most depressing casino that I have ever seen. Not even a view of the river. Whoever designed this loser completely wasted its natural assets. I don’t get it.

Speaking of losers, the slots there were tighter than Mick Jagger’s pants. We lost $50 and had no fun doing it. But they did have a pretty nice buffet that included a carving station with roast pork, ham and beef, a very nice salad bar and some interesting soups and desserts.

We stayed in Diamond Jack’s RV Park, adjacent to the casino. It is convenient for those who would want to hang out in the depressing gaming rooms, but it had no laundry, no baths and no amenities of any other kind. What it did have was train traffic heavy enough to shake the bed at 4am and an overpowering odor of raw sewerage. So one night was plenty.

Diamond Jack’s RV Park

Before we left I spent a couple of hours on the bike path in Shreveport along the Red River. My intention was to get a brisk workout and try to do most, if not all, of the 8-mile path. But I spent the first 30 minutes trying to fix the rear brakes that had gotten out of whack – crushed by Patience in a tight turn, maybe? – but failed. I had to remove the rear brake, then travel slowly using only the front brake. And the path was not as interesting as I hoped. Pretty bland, really. It did have a skateboard park, which my son would find interesting. Not much else.

Skateboard park

The bland bike path

On to Livingston, TX!

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GTW Hop 14: Hot Springs, AR, to Bossier City, LA

211 miles via US 70, I-30, AR 245 and 549, US 71 and I-20. Cumulative distance: 2,183 miles.

GTW Hop 14: Hot Springs AR to Bossier City LA

This hop was supposed to be just 190 miles, but I missed a turn which cost us another 20 miles. Oops. But, as Jett observed, if that was the worst thing that happened to us, it would be fine. And it was. Another ding-free day.

We certainly had a better day than the poor souls who were lying on the pavement of I-30 eastbound just before we left it near Texarkana. They were surrounded by EMTs, ambulances, police vehicles, remnants of their truck (looks like it flipped and they were thrown out) and lots of traffic, completely stopped. I suspect that a helicopter was on the way because it looked very serious. So we were very happy to just go 20 miles further than we needed.

I-30 was less hectic than I-40, but it was no picnic. AR 549 was great for 25 miles – brand new road, very little traffic – but then it ended and we had to make the rest of the way on US 71. It went though a couple of backwoods areas of Louisiana. Scenic in a decrepit way, I guess.

We are staying at the RV park at DiamondJacks Casino in Bossier City, just across the river from Shreveport. I don’t know quite what to expect, but maybe it will be a nice warmup for Vegas.

Did I mention that Jett’s sister is going to join us for 4 days in Vegas early in November? That should be a blast!

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Hot Springs, AR

Hot Springs has always intrigued me.  Is there a naughtier name in America?  Just Intercourse, I think.  Now we have been to both.

And – surprise – the springs are really hot!  The spring-fed fountains actually steam, even on a hot day (80 yesterday).

Steaming fountain

I suppose that it is easy to like a town when the weather is perfect, as it was for our visit – crystal clear skies, low humidity, a light breeze and balmy 80 degree heat. Just beautiful. But I probably would like it in a driving rain, too. Great architecture and some steamy history involving gangsters and sports heroes – a fine combination.

It is a place that we would both like to visit again.

Maybe next time we will actually indulge in a bath. Cost: $64 for a whirlpool bath, a 20-minute massage and a loofah to take home.

Four things that caught our attention in Hot Springs:

  1. Bathhouse Row.  This is Hot Springs’ raison d’etre, of course.  Only one of the bathhouses is still offering baths, but the buildings are all still there, all are still in use in some way and all offer a view into a simpler time a century ago.
  2. The Promenade. This brick walk above Bathhouse Row is a fine stroll. A great place to be on a perfect day.
  3. The Arlington Hotel. The building is an imposing period to the Bathhouse Row sentence. And the interior is a tangible piece of Roaring 20’s art.
  4. Andrew’s Restaurant. We were attracted to this second-floor restaurant by the sidewalk sign that promised a “bakery bar”. Never seen a bakery bar, so of course we had to go upstairs. There we found a very authentic 1920’s dining room, reminiscent of the old Durgin Park, complete with a row of betting windows in the hall, from its days as a bookie joint. The food was good – not great – but the ambiance was amazing.

Bathhouse Row visitor center

Buckstaff Bath building

The Promenade

Jett testing the waters

The Arlington Hotel

The Arlington’s lobby bar

Andrew’s sign

Andrew’s betting window hall

Andrew’s dining room

Our home for the Hot Springs stay was Catherine’s Landing, a very nice RV park near Lake Catherine. We were not on the water, but were near the dog run, the laundry and the bathrooms. The park also has a very nice playground (though we saw no children while there), a 9-hole Frisbee golf course and a heated pool. Jett thinks it is her favorite campground yet, which, combined with our love of the town, made this a very successful stop on our journey.

The dog run

The river

Back-on sites on the river

The pool

Inside the lodge

Sitting area in the lodge

We also gave Patience a treat before we moved on: we washed her. We didn’t realize how dirty she was until the job was done and she looked (almost) new again. That $100 wasn’t in our budget, but it was worth it.

Patience, freshly washed

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GTW Hop 13: West Memphis, AR, to Hot Springs, AR

186 miles via I-40, I-30, US 70 and US 270. Cumulative distance: 1,972 miles.

GTW Hop 13: West Memphis AR to Hot Springs AR

Number 13 was lucky for us: no dings! The only real adventure of any sort on this hop was a mysterious 20-minute delay on I-40 east of Little Rock – no accident, no work crew (though it was in a work zone), no disabled vehicle on the side of the road. It seemed like the road was shut down for some unknown reason and by the time we got to where it had been shut all evidence had been removed. Strange.

As it has been since we first encountered it east of Knoxville, I-40 was a sea of 18-wheelers.  We were happy to finally leave it behind in Little Rock.  I-30 had its share of trucks, but was less congested than I-40.

Jett did not like the small roads that we had to take for the last few miles to our campsite, nor did she enjoy being low on gas.  But we made it safely.  She really likes the campground.  More on it tomorrow.

Today we will take a peek at the famous Bathhouse Row and, just maybe, take a bath.

I wonder if they do dogs too?

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West Memphis, AR

It is fun being on the Mississippi, but the river is very low right now – the first sign we have seen of the midwest’s severe drought this summer.  The river would have to rise 20 t0 30 feet to overflow its banks and another 30 feet to get to the flood level experienced last spring (the office people showed Jett the high-water mark still etched on the barn).

We had a beautiful sunrise yesterday.  The dogs and I saw it while Jett slumbered on.

The sunset was almost as nice as the sunset. And Jett saw it, too.

Pre-dawn, looking toward Memphis

Pre-dawn, flood plain

Almost dawn

Sunrise

Dawn breaking

First light

This morning we were treated(?) to the opposite: a violent, windy thunderstorm before dawn. Gusts of over 40 mph rocked Patience and woke us at 5am. I had to scramble to close the windows (it was a warm night) against the horizontal rain that was pelting the RV. And during a short lull I had to go out and retrieve the extra sewer hose that I had left, unattached, under the RV – it had blown to the adjacent site.

Our site for this hop is one of the riverside pull-throughs at Tom Sawyer’s RV Park. Tom Sawyer’s turned out to be the best thing that could have happened to us on this hop. We saw the Graceland RV Park yesterday and, while nice, did not come close to the ambiance of Tom Sawyer’s.

We simply love being on the Mississippi. It has been fun watching the river traffic. I thought that with the river being so low that barges might not be able to navigate the river. Our neighbor, who was here a couple of years ago, confirmed that traffic is much lighter now, but there are still large barges that chug by pretty regularly. I should note that we can see only half the river – the land that you see on the other side of the river in my photos is an island and another large channel lies on the opposite side. Our side of the island seems to attract mostly upstream traffic – we have seen just one barge go downstream.

I will note, however, that the throb of the tug’s powerful diesel engines is less charming at 3am than it is during the day.

Sunset dog walk

Sunset at Tom Sawyer’s

River traffic at dawn

Our main tourist event yesterday, of course, was Graceland. While neither Jett nor I are huge Elvis fans, we do appreciate his music and visiting Graceland was on both of our bucket lists. We didn’t know quite what to expect – I don’t recall having ever seen a photo of it – but we weren’t disappointed. It isn’t cheap – we paid $27 each for just the mansion tour (we skipped the extended tour that includes his airplanes, his automobile collection and a bunch of other optional attractions that a true devotee would not view as optional). The ticket office, the parking lot, the RV park, Heartbreak Hotel and all of the miscellaneous attractions are located on the west side of US 51, leaving the 13 acres of Graceland itself unencumbered on the east side of the road. Shuttle buses take tourists to/from the mansion, which probably significantly reduces the carnage that would result from people taking pictures while strolling across a busy highway.

The tour is self-guided, with digital headphones that explain each stop along the way.  Elvis’ private rooms upstairs are off limits, but the rest of the house is open, including the famous “Jungle Room.”  There is a long hall that contains his gold records and the racquetball court contains even more.  We were also unaware that Elvis is buried on the grounds so we were surprised when we happened upon his grave at the end of the tour.

We were admonished repeatedly before and during the tour that video recording and flash photography were prohibited.  I suspect that many people took video anyway (how can you tell, with today’s digital cameras?), but I didn’t.  I didn’t use the flash, either, but my camera takes nice photos without it.  Here are a few.  I have more, if you want them.

Graceland

Graceland’s front paddock

The sitting room

The dining room

The billiards room

The jungle room

Elvis’ practice piano

The hall of records

The racquetball court

One of Elvis’ outfits

The grave

We topped off the afternoon by visiting some random BBQ place so that I could taste some authentic Memphis ribs. I chose the “rib tips” with no clue what I was ordering (and the counter person was at a loss to describe the dish). What I got was small cubes of ribs that were too small to either hold or cut with knife and fork. I have no clue as to how one is supposed to eat them – maybe suck on them until they dissolve? In any case, if offered rib tips… DECLINE.

The bits that I managed to eat were tasty, but a big pile of them went into the trash. A culinary mistake on my part.

On the way back to Tom Sawyer’s we stopped at a grocery store to get some items we needed. I guess we shouldn’t have been surprised as West Memphis is not only on the wrong side of the river, it is on the wrong side of the tracks, as they say. We have never seen so many off brands in our lives. They stocked exactly one brand of spaghetti sauce – Mantia’s. We took it. The big success was the 56-cent can of dog food that ChaCha and Grace finished off in about 9 seconds. I don’t know what was in it, but the dogs liked it.

We didn’t buy any “bologna snacks.” Don’t know what they are. Didn’t want to find out.

Today we head to Hot Springs, AR. If we can hitch up in the driving rain.

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GTW Hop 12: Hermitage, TN, to West Memphis, AR

236 miles via I-40 and I-440.  Cumulative distance: 1,786 miles.

GTW Hop 12: Hermitage TN to West Memphis AR

A few days ago it seemed unlikely that we were going to get so far as the Mississippi, much less California. But yesterday we crossed the Mississippi, so maybe California is possible as well.

Crossing the Mississippi

You may have noticed that the weather continues to be dark and damp. I don’t know where the sun has gone, but we haven’t seen more than a couple of hours of sunshine in the past week. Yesterday the forecast in Nashville was for clearing by noon and sunny in the afternoon, but we traveled 200 miles west of Nashville and didn’t see a single sunny break. Depressing.

It is too bad, too, because there is actually some color on the leaves down here which would be much more spectacular in the sunshine. I thought that the fall colors arrived much later in Tennessee but clearly I was mistaken.

I-40 is a major trucking route. It was wall-to-wall 18-wheelers the entire way. We couldn’t shake one particular truck that went slower than us uphill and faster than us downhill. He also seemed to like cutting in front of people. Jett finally got annoyed enough to give him a dirty look as we passed. If you know Jett, you know that a dirty look from her is as good as a finger.

Our intention was to stay two nights at the Graceland RV Park, adjacent to Graceland and behind the Heartbreak Hotel (really). But with all the activity yesterday morning getting the truck started, the battery switched out and the tire pressures adjusted, I forgot to call ahead. When we stopped for lunch I called and was informed that they had no vacancies. So we had to find another. Fortunately, we got a spot at Tom Sawyer’s RV Park. We now sit about 30 feet from the edge of the Mississippi River. If the sun comes out we will get some nice river shots.

The guy in the office mentioned that they got flooded out last spring. Jett was fearful that we would be swept away in a flash flood if we got another nasty thunderstorm like we got Thursday night (vivid lightning and buckets of rain). I assured her that the Mississippi River was not one to flood without warning.  However, it is a bit unnerving to realize that we are sleeping on the wet side of the levee.

Today: Graceland.  Grace would be thrilled, but we can’t take her.

Just to be fair, I suppose we will have to find a ChaChaLand somewhere along the way.

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Hermitage, TN

No, we didn’t see The Hermitage, Andrew Jackson’s home, even though it was just a few miles away.  And, no, we didn’t go out to a Nashville nightclub because we were lucky(?) enough to be in Nashville for the one and only Thursday Night NFL game of the year hosted by the Titans.  We knew that it would be a zoo downtown as the stadium is just a short walk from The District, the downtown club area.  So last night we went to the Opry Mills Mall (huge – not as big as the Mall of America, but large enough to have a carousel in the food court), saw the (new) Grand Ole Opry (a disappointment as I didn’t know that it had moved to a *mall*) and dined at Johnny Rocket’s.

Opry Mills Entrance 3

The Opry Mills food court carousel

 

All of that was fun.  And we did go into Nashville for 2 hours in the afternoon, to have a pulled pork sandwich and a beer at Rippy’s with all the obnoxious Steelers fans in town for the game.  The sandwich was excellent.  The Steelers fans got what they deserved when their team lost.

 

 

Rippy’s

Steelers fans before their loss

Our home for the last two nights was the RV park at Nashville Shores, a water park that is closed for the season. The setting was beautiful but the site was tight and too short to hold both Patience and the truck. But it was nearly empty, so I simply parked the truck in the adjacent site. Like everyone else.

Good things about Nashville Shores? First and foremost, the lake. When I took the dogs for a walk Thursday morning the sun was shining brightly (for the first time in a week), the air was cool and steam was rising from the lake. Absolutely beautiful. Unfortunately, I didn’t take the camera. You will have to trust me that it was a beautiful scene.  I have included a couple of shots from this morning when it was drab and gray.  Imagine the same scene with the sun shining.

The lake at Nashville Shores

Another view of the lake

Another good thing: the pooch park.  They had a huge fenced-in dog run – probably as large as the one at Luray.  The dogs loved it, of course.

Dog run at Nashville Shores

The other good thing: the staff was very helpful when the truck would not start (again!) this morning and was understanding when we were an hour late departing because I took the truck to NTB to have one of the batteries replaced.  I noticed, when the truck wouldn’t start, that one of the batteries was warm and one was cold.  The warm one was also making a slight buzzing sound.  When I disconnected the battery it continued to buzz and stayed warm.  Conclusion: the battery was draining itself.

Anyway, that’s my theory.  NTB confirmed that the battery failed its test 2 out of 3 times (which might explain why it passed at Sears last Sunday – they tested it just once).  The true test will come tomorrow morning when we see if the truck starts.

On to Memphis.  The GTW is now more than 25% complete.

And two whole hops without a blowout!

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GTW Hop 11: Pigeon Forge, TN, to Hermitage, TN

202 miles via US 441 and I-40. Cumulative distance: 1,552 miles.

GTW Hop 11: Pigeon Forge TN to Hermitage TN

Two incidents today, but thankfully no permanent dings.

Incident #1: The truck would not start again. We were all prepared to leave the campsite and I tried to start the truck to hitch up. Barely turned over. This time I asked the campground for assistance and they sent a guy over. We got the truck started in a few minutes. But something is draining the battery. Not every day, but once in a while. I need to figure this out.

Incident #2: While traveling down I-40 about halfway between Knoxville and Memphis, we came upon a tractor in the breakdown lane, mowing grass. An 18-wheeler was to my left and another vehicle was behind me, so I just had to thread my way through. There was enough room, so there was no problem there. The problem was that the tractor kicked something up as we approached. It was large – maybe a couple of inches. I didn’t have time to react and I couldn’t have done much anyway. The thing banged against the top of the windshield and it flashed into my head that the windshield was going to shatter. It banged off of the truck very loudly, like a gunshot. But no broken windshield. Not a crack. Not even a pit. We drove on to the next rest area and got out to look. I figured it must have hit above the windshield, which saved the glass, but I expected to see a ding somewhere. Nothing.

Lucky.

I-40 is very hilly, but the slopes are more gentle than the ones we had in VA, PA or NY.  The traffic was not heavy, so mostly I ran on cruise control.  There are long stretches through dense forest and a couple of places that are elevated, with scenic views to the south.  Except for the near-disaster, I enjoyed driving this hop.

Our destination was the Nashville Shores RV Park in Hermitage, TN, just east of Nashville.  It is an interesting park in that it is on a lake (we could have had a lakeside site, but we opted for a pull-through) and is adjacent to a (closed for the season) amusement park.  It is scenic, quiet and almost empty.

And very cold.  The low temperature last night was just above freezing – around 35 degrees.  I am surprised at how chilly it gets in Tennessee in October.  The Knoxville weather report yesterday commented on the possibility of frost and said that it was just a little early – the normal date of first frost in the Knoxville area was mid-October.  I know around Boston it is late October.  Must be the elevation and lack of an ocean.

We were thinking of going to the Grand Ole Opry, but discovered that live shows are limited to weekends.  That is not an option.  But we will do something in Nashville tonight.  We can’t come to Music City without hearing some music.

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Pigeon Forge, TN

First, let me admit that I am a wuss when it comes to roller coasters.  That wasn’t always the case; when I was young I loved them.  Not that I had many opportunities to ride, as Wisconsin is not exactly Roller Coaster Heaven.  But I fondly recall some trips in which a roller coaster remains as a vivid memory.  And I rode the wooden roller coaster (top speed: 35 mph) at Canobie Lake whenever I could.

But I didn’t ride any of the 5 roller coasters offered at Dollywood.  I almost went on the Mystery Mine coaster – until a helpful patron told me that the ride begins with an 80-foot vertical climb in the dark.  I wasn’t sure I could do that without some fresh Depends on hand, so I moved on.  The wooden roller coaster was the finest I have ever seen and I think I could have managed that, but I saw that first when I was still window-shopping.  The new Wild Eagle ride – a coaster in which you ride on the wings, dangling over space – looked to be pretty gentle in terms of G’s, but the 6 loops scared me off.  The fourth one was another that started in the dark, so I passed.  The fifth one was entirely in the dark.  That one intrigued me as I suspect it would have been like Space Mountain at Disneyworld, which I enjoyed, but it was getting late by that time so I passed on that one, too.

The Wild Eagle coaster

The Mystery Mine tower and Wild Eagle loop

The wooden coaster

I sure that I will regret not having gone on any of them – and I could have done ALL of them as there were no lines anywhere all day –  but I am pretty sure that we will return as we really enjoyed the park.  The most daring thing I did was Adventure Mountain which is basically a ropes walk/climb.  It was more challenging than I expected – especially the section where I had to balance on a 6-inch beam and hug a rock wall – but was a lot of fun.  I just had to ignore the 10-year-olds who went three times faster than me.  The downside of being there on a cold day – besides shivering on the train ride up into the forest – was that a number of attractions were closed.  Adventure Mountain is actually 3 ropes courses but only one was open.

Navigating Adventure Mountain

The rock wall and balance beam

I mentioned the train.  I was impressed.  This is no little miniature; this is the real deal – a 2-8-2 steam locomotive that originally worked on the Alaska Railway.  It billowed smoke (and covered us with minute specks of coal cinder) and belched prodigious amounts of steam, but gave me a real sense of what travel in the era of steam locomotives would have been like.

The belching locomotive

We dined at Miss Lillian’s Chicken House, an all-you-can-eat buffet of fried chicken an chicken-fried steak.  Jett and I agreed that it was the best fried chicken dinner we have ever had.  Crispy skin, juicy meat, tasty sides.  I went back for seconds.

We also saw Dolly’s bus.  It was nice, but old (built in 1996) with NO SLIDES.  Simply barbaric.  But we got to see where she slept while on the road and her dressing table with one of her wigs.

Dolly’s bedroom

Dolly’s bus

Dolly’s wig

While we were enjoying Dollywood, the dogs were enjoying(?) Doggywood, Dollywood’s kennel.  They kept both of our mutts in a nice clean cage all day for $25.  Very reasonable.  We stopped by after lunch to take them for a walk, then returned to the park.  We appreciated how thoughtful Dollywood was in providing that facility for dog lovers.

Incarcerated

In general, we felt that Dollywood was exceptionally clean, friendly and very thoughtfully laid out.  Adjacent to most of the major rides was a kiddie park, for the enjoyment of those too small for the big rides.  A family with children in a range of ages could let the teenagers ride the coaster while mom or dad hung out in the kiddie area.  And very nice kiddie areas, too.

Dollywood wasn’t cheap – the senior all-day pass was $51.  But a full day at Canobie Lake is $30 and you get a lot more at Dollywood.  We thought it was worth the price.  It would have definitely been worth the price if I hadn’t been a wuss and had experienced those superb coasters.

Our campsite for the Pigeon Forge hop was the Creekside RV Park.  It was not our favorite place.  We were lucky enough to get a pull-through site, but it was barely large enough for the rig.  In general the sites were small.  It was also very soggy due to the four days of rain that preceded our arrival – not the park’s fault, but it didn’t help improve our impression.

Today we move on to Nashville.

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