GTW Hop 32: North Bend, OR, to Canyonville, OR

100 miles via US 101, OR 42, OR 99 and I-5. Cumulative distance: 5,613 miles.

GTW Hop 32: North Bend OR to Canyonville OR

This was not the hop that I wanted to make. I really wanted to see the Oregon coast south of Coos Bay, which is reportedly very striking. But weather intervened. Yet another “Pineapple Express” weather system is going to dump many inches of rain on Oregon and northern California. That alone would make the coastal trip miserable. But the storm is also forecast to produce hurricane-force gusts along the coast. US 101 was identified specifically in the weather alert as being hazardous to travel.

So, for the second time in 10 days, we are back at Canyonville and the Seven Feathers resort to ride out a storm.

I wish we had kept track of the amount of rain we have endured. Between the heavy rains we got in Tennessee, the steady rain we got in New York and these relentless, pounding rains in Oregon and California, I am guessing that we have seen over 10 inches in less than 80 days. That works out to nearly 50 inches a year – way more than an average year in Massachusetts. And we spent several weeks in the arid southwest!

I think Patience is starting to grow moss.

We will probably hit the casino sometime today, to donate more cash to Indian Nation. But most of the day will be spent paying bills and preparing for resuming work.

And maybe trying to find a way south that isn’t flooded.

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North Bend/Coos Bay, OR

These two towns are interconnected, sharing Coos Bay waterfront and US 101 as the main drag. There is some activity at the docks, mostly ships being loaded up with logs for shipment to some country that is devoid of trees (Japan?), but most of the docks are abandoned, suggesting that the area’s heyday is long past.

The Mill Casino, where we parked Patience for two nights, is built on some of this abandoned bay frontage. The complex includes a hotel and a smallish casino that I liked and Jett didn’t. We both lost small amounts of money, so that wasn’t it. I think it was that I had a good time losing my $35, being up by over $70 at one point, while Jett just blew through her $40. But, as she points out, she is still ahead since Seven Feathers while I am not.

Thanks, Jett. Like I needed to be reminded.

We had lunch yesterday at the Sizzler. I don’t think I have been to a Sizzler in 20 years. It still has the same mediocre steaks and seafood, but the salad bar has improved.

The RV park at the Mill Casino was nice, but was a mere shadow of the Seven Feathers RV park. The pull-through was tight and the extra $3 that I paid to get a view of the bay was wasted as the bay is not very scenic. Residents of the RV park have access to the hotel amenities, so we could have used the indoor heated pool, but we didn’t.

The weather yesterday was mostly cloudy and cool, with a raw feel to it. Today will be worse – rain again – and tomorrow will be worse than today. Hurricane-force winds are possible tomorrow along the coast. Needless to say, we are going to head inland to avoid the wind. That is a shame because I am told that the stretch of US 101 along the south Oregon coast is beautiful. But I probably wouldn’t enjoy is so much if Patience was blown over.

So… yet another adjustment to the GTW itinerary. Back to Seven Feathers.

Gray Coos Bay

Tight site

Nearly empty on Tuesday

Pups at the dog park (Patience and casino in the background)

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GTW Hop 31: Tillamook, OR, to North Bend, OR

169 miles via OR 6 and US 101. Cumulative distance: 5,513 miles.

GTW Hop 31: Tillamook OR to North Bend OR

The OR 6 portion of this hop was the couple of miles from the Wilson River RV Park into downtown Tillamook; the rest was on US 101. It is a very scenic route, but with a lot of curves and turns. Jett did not enjoy it at all as it activated her vertigo. I enjoyed it a lot, except for the sections that went through towns where the lanes were narrow and parked cars lined the street.

We stopped for lunch at a pullout overlooking the Pacific. Beautiful.

Lunch break on the Pacific

Patience on the Pacific

Rocky beach

Clouding up

Surf

Looking north

I am a little tardy with my report on the Wilson River RV Park. It doesn’t have a website, but you can Google it and find some not-very-complimentary comments. I would characterize it as a trashy little park with good fishing. It seems that the park residents are either permanent or weekend fishermen. We did not see another rig come or go in the six days we were there. Most of the rigs look to be over 10 years old, in various states of deterioration and will probably turn to dust before they are removed. Or maybe washed away in the next flood.

It also has a very steep driveway that actually gave me nightmares. I was thinking ahead to what I would do if I couldn’t haul Patience up that 20-degree incline. As it turned out, the truck was up to the task and it wasn’t as difficult as I feared, but don’t even think about going there if your truck has marginal towing capacity.

Bottom line: A good place to fish.

Trashy RVs with steep driveway in the background

Approaching the RV park on OR 6

The RV park from OR 6

Patience at Wilson River

Fishing on the Wilson River

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Tillamook family

My mother and my sister live in Tillamook, which, of course, is why we were here for Thanksgiving. The dinner was hosted by my sister and was attended by Jett, me, my sister Lois, my brother-in-law Chris, my niece Kim, my nephews Michael and Scott, Michael’s wife Taylor, family friend Stephanie, Stephanie’s son David and his wife Joanne and, as guest of honor, my mother. The food was terrific (especially Joann’s craisin and walnut salad) and was followed by a spirited game of Apples to Apples, won by Joann.

Apples to Apples is a game in which nouns are matched to adjectives, best noun winning.  Each time your noun is picked as the best you get to keep the adjective card.  Supposedly your collection of adjectives describes you.  My winning adjectives were “spicy” and “eternal.”  Hmmm…

Me, my sister and Mom

Three generations

I have already mentioned the crabbing adventure and the trip to the Tillamook Cheese Factory. Other highlights:

  • A trip to the Spirit Mountain Casino where Chris and I collectively donated over $100 to the Native American cause.
  • A hike on Lookout Point.  I enjoyed the walk, but Grace had a ball.  She doesn’t often get to walk off the leash and to do it with 5 other dogs and to have a beach at the end was an hour of pure joy for her.  Cha-Cha, with his bad legs, stayed home.
  • Lunch at Brewin’ in the Wind in Oceanside. The weather was miserable but the food was fine.

Grace on the beach

The entire hiking menagerie, plus me

Scott, Lois and Kim on the hike

Coming down from Lookout Point

Kim, Chris and Lois

Brewin’ in the Wind

Oceanside

Between events we spent a lot of time at Lois and Chris’ house, set on a hill overlooking the Tillmook Valley. It had its own kind of beauty, especially in the morning before the fog lifted. We also got to experience the transformation of the Christmas tree from a shapely, fresh-cut evergreen to a misshapen “special needs” tree (thanks to some excessive trimming), back to a holiday beauty.

Morning view from Lois and Chris’ deck

Overly trimmed tree

Trimmed tree

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Tillamook crabs

I went crabbing yesterday on Netarts Bay with my brother-in-law Chris and my niece Kim. It was not my first time crabbing – Chris introduced me to the sport a few years back – but it was my most productive. We caught 9 good-sized Dungeness crabs. Chris cooked them and I now have two of them in my refrigerator. Good snackin’.

Crabbing is a popular sport in the Tillamook area. Netarts Bay, the next bay over from Tillamook Bay, is the favored spot, presumably because there are more crabs there. There were more than a dozen boats out yesterday, but it is a large bay and we didn’t feel crowded.

For those of you who have never crabbed, I will give you some basic instruction. First, you need some crab traps or rings. Rings seem to be favored, but it may be that they are simply more economical. It is actually two concentric rings – one about two feet in diameter and one about 18″ in diameter. Netting connects the two rings, smaller ring on the bottom. Three ropes are strung from the larger ring and are tied together, forming a handle for a very large net basket. A long rope is attached to the handle and a float (empty plastic 1-gallon jugs in our case) is tied to the other end. To use them, each trap is baited and is dropped into the water. After some period of time, the rings are hauled quickly to the surface and, with luck, some crabs will be in the net, feeding on the bait.

Usually a crabber drops 6 or more rings, then proceeds to raise each one in succession and drop it again. We had six rings and we were on the bay for about 2 hours to get 9 legal crabs (legal = males of a certain size).

Fish heads can be used as bait, but the newest innovation is mink carcass. Yes, it is as disgusting as it sounds. Apparently the advantage of mink is that seals don’t eat them. If fish heads are used and seals are around, they steal them from the traps.

The weather doesn’t have to be nice to crab, but it makes the experience more pleasurable. It is best to be out when the tide is slack. Slack tide yesterday was 10:40am and it was a beautiful day, so we were out from 9:30 to 11:30. It was a little chilly – the temperature was 38 degrees at 9:30am – but the sun was bright, the winds were calm and it felt warmer on the water. It was probably 50 degrees when we brought the boat in.

Kim steered the boat while Chris and I took turns setting and retrieving the rings. Kim is an avid environmentalist and was happy every time the ring came up empty. But she was a good sport and resisted the urge to Free Captain Krabs.

Crabbing isn’t free. The main expense is the bait. At $3.50 per mink carcass, it cost $21 in bait alone. Add it gasoline, launch fees, license fees and amortized ring prices and you are getting up there. Probably over $3 per crab.

One of our throw-backs was a pregnant female, about to unleash a million eggs into the waters of Netarts Bay. Apparently it is pretty rare to find a female in this condition. My sister Lois, who has crabbed many more times than I have, said she has never seen one.

Anyway, it was fun. Jett, my mom, my sister and my nephew Scott joined us for lunch at The Schooner Restaurant which is right at the boat launch. I had a very fine rockfish-and-chips lunch. My sister then took Jett and me on a tour of the area, highlighted by dessert at Roseanna’s Cafe in Oceanside. Roseanna’s desserts are legendary and she didn’t disappoint. If you are in the area, try her Marionberry cobbler. Delicious!

Netarts Bay, 9:30am

Happy Camp (really) on Netarts Bay

Pregnant crab

Chris at the helm

Chris and Kim

Lois and Kim at The Schooner

Mom at the Schooner

Scott at the Schooner

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Tillamook cheese

I always marveled that my sister, who grew up in the heart of America’s Dairyland (Wisconsin, in case you didn’t know), managed to settle down in the one place in the United States that claims to produce better cheese: Tillamook, OR. There is no question that Tillamook cheese is good, but I will leave it to you to decide if it is better than Wisconsin cheese. I can, however, attest to the fact that Tillmook has the same aroma as Wisconsin’s best dairy farming areas. You can’t escape the distinctive odor of cows, manure and silage. It is a bit of Wisconsin, but with mountains.

It is kind of amusing, I think, that we bought a 5 lb block of Tillamook sharp cheddar when we were in Phoenix, then carried it all the way back to Tillamook. Coals to Newcastle.

We visited the Tillamook Cheese Factory yesterday after lunch. I am told that this is the second “most visited” attraction in Oregon, after Crater Lake. I don’t think I would travel hundreds of miles to see it, like I would for the Grand Canyon, say, but if you happen to be in the area (which isn’t likely because there is not much else in the vicinity) is is worth an hour of your time. They offer a self-guided tour of the factory. I saw blocks of cheese very similar to the one in my refrigerator being packaged – probably to restock the shelves in Phoenix.

Packaging Tillamook cheese

They also make ice cream. Ben and Jerry have nothing to worry about, but it is pretty good. I give them high marks for originality: I had a scoop of “Grandma’s Cookie Dough” which was very sweet, with chunks of frosting mixed in. And the waffle cone in which it was served was probably the best I have ever had.

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GTW Hop 30: Canyonville, OR, to Tillamook, OR

240 miles via I-5, OR 22 and US 101. Cumulative distance: 5,344 miles.

GTW Hop 30: Canyonville OR to Tillamook OR

The weather broke enough for us to make the long trek to the coast on Monday. It was a long trip – 5 hours total, with a lunch break – but with the exception of one brief downpour, was mostly done in light rain. There were even a few sunny breaks that didn’t last long, but were welcome nonetheless.

Most of the trip was on I-5, but the last 50 miles were on OR 22 – a narrow, twisty 2-lane road, and US 101 (the Oregon Coast Highway) that wasn’t much better. Jett doesn’t like these roads and kept her eyes closed most of the way.

We stopped for lunch at a riverside rest area just south of Salem. There was a beautiful tree there which displayed well in one of the rare sunny breaks. We also got a rainbow.

Rest area tree

Patience and 18-wheel buddies

Rainbow

We arrived at our destination – the Wilson River RV Park – at dusk. The river was still high but had apparently dropped six feet from Monday’s peak. Debris on the shoreline showed that the water level topped out just a few feet below the RV pads.

Dusk and the high-water mark at Wilson River

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Canyonville, OR

Canyonville is a tiny town nestled in the rugged hills of southwest Oregon. But the city really doesn’t matter because we didn’t see it; we spent all three days resting in the embrace of the Seven Feathers RV Resort, arguably the best RV park we have visited on the GTW.

As I mentioned, it all starts with service. The check-in and escort to the site were the best we have experienced. The entrance/registration portico had the feel of a first-rate resort hotel. The site itself was a perfectly level concrete pad with lush grassy strips on either side with plenty of room for the slides. All sites (nearly 200) were beautifully landscaped, with trees, bushes and manicured mulch. Two sewer connections, front and back, made hooking up the sewer lines a snap. Cable TV, 50-amp electric and sweet water. The perfect site.

The welcoming portico

Seven Feathers

Seven Feathers

Other amenities? A beautiful stream that runs the length of the park, a very nice laundry, a barbeque area, a nice reading room, a beautiful pool with hottub and the most amazing individual bathroom/shower facilities that we have seen anywhere.

Pool

Reading room

Barbeque area

Patience at Seven Feathers

Laundry

Laundry

Bath/shower

The complex includes a full-service truck stop (yes, they actually pumped my diesel when I filled up) with a very nice mini-mart and deli, and a casino that gave Jett a $140 return on a $20 investment. They also had a $14 buffet which was not as good at the Bellagio’s, but was much more economical and quite good.

The whole complex is owned and operated by the Cow Creek Band of the Umpqua Tribe of Indians. Really. I don’t know what the Umpquas did before they got into the casino/RV biz, but they are really good at what they do now.

Bridge with Umpqua plaque

We had two interesting neighbors during our stay. One was an Open Range fifth wheel – the first one we have seen (we have seen two other OR’s but both were travel trailers) and a cute 15-foot ultra-compact trailer.

Another Open Range 5th wheel

Tiny Casita trailer

We enjoyed our stay despite the weather. It rained about 90% of the time, including a fierce storm on Monday that kept us inside all day (expect for the required doggy walks). Not a great few days of weather, but the park was awesome. We were happy that we weren’t on the coast where an 84 mph gust flipped a fifth wheel. We rocked pretty hard at times, but stayed upright.

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Heavy weather

We are still hunkered down at the Seven Feathers casino and RV park in Canyonville, OR. The weather is awful here and worse along the coast. There were gusts of over 80mph all along the Oregon coast today, including one of 98mph at one location – that’s a category 2 hurricane. We felt gusts that I think were around 50mph. Enough to rock the RV pretty good. Now the heavy rain has begun.

We are hoping to get to Tillamook tomorrow, but it depends on whether the storm abates overnight. I called the RV park today and they said the Wilson River was over its banks, but only slightly. They had 40 RVs there that they felt were safe. The river is supposed to peak tonight, then drop tomorrow. We’ll wait and see.

In the meantime we amuse ourselves with books and slot machines. Jett won $140 yesterday, which more than made up for my $40 in losses.

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GTW Hop 29: Redding, CA, to Canyonville, OR

219 miles via I-5. Cumulative distance: 5,104 miles.

GTW Hop 29: Redding CA to Canyonville OR

Yes, folks, we have actually made it to Oregon, the last state that we will visit on the GTW. From here to the end it will be a trip down the coast to San Jose.

I wish I could be confident that we will arrive safely, but the forecast is just plain awful: between now (Sunday) and Tuesday some areas of the Oregon coast will receive over 10 inches of rain, with some flooding of streams and rivers. That makes our intended RV park destination – the Wilson River RV Park on the banks of the Wilson River – a risky choice. Our backup park, on Netarts Bay, in under a high wind advisory, with hurricane-force gusts possible. Neither sounds like a safe option right now, so I will have to watch the weather forecast *very* carefully for the next couple of days.

In the meantime, we are hunkered down at the Seven Feathers Casino and RV Park in Canyonville, OR. This is arguably the best RV park we have seen on the GTW. Spacious sites, beautiful landscaping, a fine lodge, a heated indoor pool and the most amazing bathroom/shower facilities I have seen anywhere, hands down. Not a bad place to be while waiting for the weather to pass.

The route from Redding to Canyonville was very interesting. On a sunny day I am sure it would have been spectacular (I hear that Mt Shasta is a beautiful sight), but it rained most of the way. We didn’t catch even a glimpse of Mt Shasta. We were fortunate to get a sunny break for lunch, at a very nice rest area just south of the Oregon border. We ran into an RV couple there who were headed to Yuma, AZ, for the winter. Both were 83 and were driving a rig that looked new, but in fact was over 10 years old.

Rest area

Patience at rest

Lunch stop

A sunny break

Rainbow

I was surprised at the elevation of the pass over the mountains at the border – it topped out at 4,200 feet. I was expecting no more than 2,500 feet. It is good that we got over it today because the forecast was for snow down to 4,000 feet overnight.

I will talk more about the Seven Feathers RV Park when we leave, but it had a great first impression: the sign at the entrance directed us to the portico. An RV park with a portico at the office? That’s a first. Under the portico, a man was waiting to greet us. He took some notes (my license number and RV type) and handed me a slip to take into the office. It had the feel of a valet parking service. Indeed, once I completed the registration process, the greeter hopped into a golf cart and led us to the site, directed me in and then took the time to explain the hookups. I really didn’t need the help with the hookups, but the individual attention was impressive. It was the best service we have received anywhere.

Approaching the Seven Feathers portico

That’s a good start. Now if only the casino is that friendly…

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