ATW-2 Day 7: Rome, Italy

In St Peter’s Square
Marlene and the Ukraine couple

This was a BIG sightseeing day. Arguably the biggest sightseeing day ever and a very successful one. But it started poorly. We both woke up with raging headaches, presumably from a severe caffeine deficit. So, at 6:30am Rome time (and who knows what time our bodies thought it was as we were very jet-lagged), we went down to the breakfast room to seek coffee. But breakfast begins at 7 we were told. Using our best hang-dog puppy faces we begged for a cup. No dice. The two workers were adamant: 7am.

The problem with waiting until 7am was that we had been advised to get to the Vatican early if we wanted to avoid long lines. So we headed to the Vatican, heads throbbing, and passed about 6 cafes along the way that opened at 7. But we finally found an open cafe near St Peter’s Square that was open. We ordered two Americano coffees which were served promptly. We consumed them voraciously. And got refills, then got in line for St Peter’s Basilica where we met a lovely couple from the Ukraine. We only had to wait about 20 minutes and by the time we entered our headaches were nearly gone.

It is a good thing our heads were clear because St Peter’s was mind-boggling. What a place! Huge, beauty everywhere we turned with countless pieces of magnificent art. Just incredible. More amazing than either Marlene or I expected. Very much worth the wait.

While we were wandering about the basilica we encountered a large group of very well-dressed Africans, accompanied by a number of African priests. We learned later that a couple from Nigeria was married in a small chapel.

I was fascinated by the architecture. The paintings and sculptures are fine, but I think the ceiling, arches and floors don’t get the attention they deserve. Everything everywhere is beautiful.

We left St Peter’s after touring for a little over an hour and headed back to the hotel for breakfast. Which turned out to be excellent. Then we headed back out.

First stop: thrift store where Marlene was tempted by a green gown but passed. She will be doing a lot of looking at clothes from now until the end of the trip as we are no longer constrained by the 50-pound airline luggage limit.

We walked to the Spanish Steps via the Piazza del Popolo where we posed in front of the fountain.

Next we headed toward the Trevi Fountain and along the way discovered the Basilica of Sant’Andrea delle Fratte which was yet another beautiful cathedral in Rome. We also stopped for coffee at McDonald’s – one of the few places in Rome that serves more than a 4-ounce cup of coffee. We didn’t get a front view of the Trevi Fountain because the entire space was filled with about 10,000 gawkers. But no big deal – we have seen it in the movies.

We next went in search of thrift stores. We didn’t find any good ones but did discover other interesting things, including the presidential mansion, some government building, Roman ruins and friendly police. We also popped into yet another cathedral (the name escapes me) and passed near the Pantheon but didn’t stop as my ankle was hurting. We walked (well, Marlene walked while I limped) back to the hotel. We passed the Castel Sant’Angelo and, once again, did not go in.

We rested a bit then went out to dinner. Nothing fancy, but quite good: we split a large take-out plate of fresh spaghetti with pesto sauce. Yum!

Total for the day: over 20,000 steps. That is about 10 miles. We slept well.

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ATW-2 Day 6: Chengdu, China, to Rome, Italy

Landing in Rome

Another 11-hour flight, another night with virtually no sleep. I didn’t expect that the flights from Sydney to Rome would be fun and I was right. We were both very, very tired by the time we landed. But thrilled to have made it to Rome. We arrived at 7:30am, Rome time. But our bodies were totally out of sync. We were basically in a daze. Marlene had a headache, undoubtedly due to lack of caffeine. I had a full bladder, having avoided the bathroom on the plane for a full 11 hours. We were both very happy that the customs process at Rome was quick and painless. And that a bathroom was available before we got to customs.

A word on the route taken from Chengdu to Rome by Sichuan Airlines: we avoided the Ukraine. The shortest route would have taken us right over Odessa. But when the plane got to western Kazakhstan it turned south. We went south of the Black Sea, over Turkey. I was happy for that detour.

I had booked a shuttle from the airport into the city. So our first task was finding the shuttle meeting place. We had to haul our luggage to the next terminal, but found the spot. And found the guy organizing the transport. I paid him for the 10am trip (it was not quite 9am then) and he told me to be back at 9:45. I found Marlene, just a short distance away, and we were killing time when, at 9:20am, I got a phone call from a Rome number. Since phone calls cost 25 cents per minute for me while in Italy and I didn’t know anyone in Rome, I ignored the call. But the same number immediately called again. It was the shuttle guy, demanding to know where I was. The shuttle was waiting for me! I told him I had a 10am shuttle. He got quite angry, insisting that I had booked an earlier shuttle. I didn’t argue. We hustled down to the meeting spot and he escorted us to the shuttle van.

In 30 minutes we were deposited at the door of our hotel, which was a pleasant surprise since the shuttle service had advertised “door-to-door service at an additional cost.” But that pleasant surprise was immediately followed by a very unpleasant surprise: the hotel was undergoing renovations. Memories of our unpleasant hotel experience in April in Anchorage came flooding back. Marlene wanted to walk out without even seeing the room. I didn’t see that we had much choice as the hotel was included in the flight/hotel package and was already paid for. We were both jet-lagged, very tired and could easily have had a nasty fight. But we didn’t. Instead we walked to Vatican City.

Along the way I found my shuttle reservation email. 10am. The shuttle guy had no right to be angry with me.

Vatican City. Unbeknownst to us, 2025 is a “Jubilee year” for practicing Catholics. I am not quite sure what that means to them, but what it means to me is that the roads to St Peter’s Square were packed with pilgrims. Tens of thousands of pilgrims. Probably over 50,000. We got close enough to see into the square, but were unable to get closer. Instead we walked to the Tiber River. Along the way we found a church (the Parish of Transpontina) that was one of the finest we have ever seen. But in Rome, a city filled with magnificent churches, this one barely rated honorable mention.

Marlene at Castel Sant’Angelo

We took some photos of Castel Sant’Angelo at the river but didn’t go in. Then we walked back to the hotel to check in. The good news was that the room had been recently renovated and was clean. The bad news was that it had no microwave and no coffee machine. And the hotel had no coffee in the lobby. We were both in need of caffeine. But we were more in need of sleep. We slept.

I woke around 6pm, planning to go out for a bite to eat and some coffee. I was unable to interest Marlene in either. I went back to bed and we both woke up around 5am with raging caffeine (and jet-lag) headaches.

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ATW-2 Day 5: Chengdu, China

We changed planes in Hong Kong two years ago and expected the experience in Chengdu to be similar. It wasn’t.

Tired me, on bus

First, the plane parked at a remote location with no skyway and we had to walk down a long metal staircase and get on a bus. No big deal. But the bus traveled, I estimate, over 3 miles to deliver us to the international arrivals terminal. Very strange. Doubly strange as this airport (Tianfu) is new, huge (larger than Chicago O’Hare I think) and underutilized. There were many available gates. Very odd.

Next we had to pass through a “temperature check” portal where our luggage was run through an X-ray machine. Then we had to fill out a “temporary visa” application and stand in line for about 40 minutes to be processed. And we only learned about the need for a temporary visa after finding someone in the terminal who could speak rudimentary English and let us know what to do. Very disorganized.

The guy who processed our application must have been a trainee. First he wanted us to confirm that we were traveling to Thailand – which is how he read our boarding pass. After we said, no, we are traveling to Rome he then accused us of giving him a boarding pass for our arrival at Tianfu. Idiot. Working at immigration at the airport and couldn’t even read a boarding pass.

Next we had to figure out where to go. I expected that we would stay within the secure area and just wait for our plane (a 20-hour wait, but we were expecting that and didn’t mind), but we had to exit the secure area and would have to go back through security again to board our flight to Rome. Annoying. Especially with almost no sleep.

But my phone had service! I guess the tech guy in Sydney was right – my phone was too old to handle the cell phone frequency in Sydney. But it works fine in China and hopefully will continue to work fine in Europe. But knowing that there are places in the world where my phone will be useless means that I had better think about upgrading when I get home.

American franchises in Chengdu

We spent the 20 hours in the terminal playing cards (yes, Marlene beat me again, of course) and napping. The good news was that this HUGE terminal was basically empty and there were many soft sofa-like seating areas where we could stretch out. The bad news was, according to a McDonald’s employee (yes, there was a McDonald’s in the terminal), that there was NO SHOPPING anywhere in the terminal – a major disappointment for Marlene who enjoyed the mall-like experience in Hong Kong. There were a few restaurants, including Starbucks and McDonalds. We had coffee in the morning at McDonald’s. Their coffee was very strong. We needed it.

This area is famous for pandas and the terminal had a huge panda statue. Of course we had to take a photo with it.

We had a late lunch at a fast food joint where I ordered kung pao chicken and a Snowflake beer – the most popular beer in the world. The beer was a slightly sweet version of PBR. Nothing special. The kung pao, however, was terrific.

I tried to use the bathroom and was shocked to discover that the “fixture” in the men’s room was a hole in the floor. I haven’t seen that since 1975 in rural France. I passed in favor of the unisex bathroom that had modern fixtures.

The People’s Republic of China takes airport security seriously. Besides the annoying customs process, the terminal had LOTS of visible police. Even a SWAT team. Lots of police for few passengers.

Smoking area in Chengdu

We went through security AGAIN around 10pm and were surprised to discover that, contrary to the statements of the McDonald’s employee earlier in the day, there was, indeed, shopping within the secured area. Not as much as in Hong Kong, but a handful of duty-free shops and quite a few restaurants and small stores. We did some window shopping – we could have gotten some Chinese cigarettes for about $25 per carton- but bought nothing.

I noticed a smoking area (for people using those cheap cigarettes, I guess) and was impressed with the area. Most smoking areas in terminals are reminiscent of a prison or a school cafeteria. This one was very nice. And outdoors so not very smoky.

The flight left on time. Rome tomorrow.

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ATW-2 Day 4: Sydney, Australia, to Chengdu, China

This was a travel day, but we had a late flight – 9:20pm – so we had nearly a full day in Sydney. We had breakfast with Leo and Gloria again, packed and checked out by 10am. We confirmed on the hotel scale that our bags were (barely) under the 50-pound airline limit. We had to rearrange a few things (and fill our backpacks to overflowing), but we achieved our goal.

We then left the bags with the hotel owner/concierge and walked to the harbor where Marlene fed the remaining Aldi bread to the pigeons. They had no fear of humans with food. They showed me some love too.

Vacant Sydney airport terminal

We grabbed a taxi near the pigeon feeding grounds, went to the hotel to collect our luggage and went to the airport. We were there early so we had to cool our heels for an hour before we could check in. But we used the time to verify that our luggage was not overweight. And by arriving early we beat the rush.

After checking in we had to wait for a couple of hours for the 9:20 flight. We played cards. I have given up hope of beating Marlene at rummy. I suspect she will soon suggest we play for 10 cents a point.

The flight, on Sichuan Airlines, left on time. It was a long but uneventful flight. The meals (dinner and breakfast) were interesting though not particularly appetizing. Dinner was a chicken something with a lot of potatoes and not much chicken. It was served with a vegetable side that resembled sweet sauerkraut. It also came with a very sweet drink that I believe was yogurt. Breakfast was better. It was something that looked and tasted like quiche.

The entertainment system was forgettable as it was mostly Chinese movies. Even the English ones had Mandarin subtitles which were distracting.

We slept little and arrived in Chengdu at 5:30am.

Arriving in Chengdu China

Then things got interesting. But more on that in the next post.

Marlene on the private balcony

Our three nights in Sydney were at the Mariners Court Hotel. This would be called a “boutique hotel” in the US. It is small and is not part of any large hotel chain. It got good reviews and had a location I liked, but it was so inexpensive (under $100 per night) that I arrived with low expectations. To say that it exceeded my expectations would be a gross understatement. The room was large, the bathroom was clean, the breakfast was superb and the management was very accommodating. We arrived at 9am and were given a room at that time and were even invited to have breakfast. The bed was comfortable, the minifridge was very cold, there were electrical outlets in convenient locations (and my 110V converter worked fine on the 220V power), closet space was plentiful. Everything about the room was fine. And it had a private balcony!

I loved this place. Highly recommended. 10 out of 10.

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ATW-2 Day 3: Sydney Australia

Day 3 in Sydney was another beautiful day and another day when we logged over 10,000 steps walking around the city.

We started with another wonderful breakfast at the hotel, then I spent some time editing the photos we have taken on the first two days in Sydney. Then we ventured out in search of the King’s Cross neighborhood, an area that had been recommended to us. We found it, but it took some serious climbing to get there – it is a couple of hundred feet up an escarpment behind the hotel.

King’s Cross seems to be a cozy neighborhood filled with nice homes (many with wrought iron railings, ala New Orleans) and funky little shops. Our prize was McDonald’s where we got two very nice ice cream cones for A$0.50 each – about 40 cents US – cheaper than we could get those cones at home!

It doesn’t take much to thrill us.

The public spaces in Sydney continue to impress us. There seem to be small parks everywhere. This strikes me as a very pleasant, livable city.

Next we adventured onto the subway. This was a bit daunting as the Sydney subway is a “tap on, tap off” fare system. You don’t buy a ticket or a fare card (though that, too, is an option). Instead you just charge the ride to your credit card by using the smart phone’s wallet. I made sure that both Marlene and I were set up to do this, so we took the subway from King’s Cross to City Hall – just two stops (and just A$1.00). We had to wait only a couple of minutes (trains run very frequently here) and took a ride on a double-deck driverless subway train. Oh, it is a brave new world!

We were impressed with the subway and were also impressed with the many bike paths in downtown Sydney. Like Barcelona, Sydney does much to encourage the use of bicycles and scooters.

After exiting the subway at City Hall we walked toward Chinatown in search of thrift shops. We didn’t find any large thrift shops and I am not sure we ever made it to Chinatown but we did find a food mall that was wall-to-wall Asian restaurants and fast food joints filled with young Asians. There are a LOT of people of Asian descent in Sydney.

We then walked about a mile to an area that had several thrift stores – Surrey Hills. It reminded me a bit of the Haight-Ashbury district in San Francisco. It had a “hippie” vibe.

On the way to the thrift stores we happened upon an Aldi. Marlene was thrilled to see it. We bought some bread and chips.

We had sandwiches with the bread and ate them with the chips. Then we played cards and Marlene continued to school me.

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ATW-2 Day 2: Sydney, Australia

Breakfast room and Mariners Court Hotel
Hotel breakfast

We had breakfast at the hotel and met Leo and Gloria, a couple from Canada who will be driving around Australia for 5 weeks. The weather was iffy – cloudy, cool and a little drizzle – so we didn’t rush right out after breakfast. Instead we played some knock rummy and Marlene continued to whip my butt.

The complementary hotel breakfast is VERY good. Eggs, sausage, ham, mushrooms, toast, juices, yogurt, coffee. Really excellent.

When we ventured out it was to walk to the The Rocks section of Sydney, near where the ship docked yesterday. We found lots of little shops but they were pricey. So we walked down George St and finally found a place that we thought had reasonable prices. We bought 4 t-shirts and a couple of souvenir magnets.

On the way there we stopped in the Museum of Modern Art but didn’t do much other than get some photos with some funky sculpture.

Then it started to rain. We made it back to the hotel without getting soaked but were tired and napped. We had leftovers for dinner – the chinese fast food we bought yesterday.

We went to bed early, leaving the TV on. I awoke at about 3am and was surprised to see a live NFL game – Denver Broncos and New York Jets playing in London.

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ATW-1 wrapup

The first segment of our around-the-world trip was a 22-night cruise on the Carnival Luminosa, plus one day preceding the cruise. So this is basically a cruise review.

The Carnival Luminosa

We have now lived on this ship on two separate journeys that combined for 52 nights. We know the ship well. It is a good ship. We love the Ocean Plaza venue with its large dance floor and the casino, while not kind to us, is well laid out. The theater is nice. The only issues we have with the ship is the layout of the serving stations on the Lido deck – we have to walk a long way to see what is being served. The ship also needs a laundromat.

Highlights:

  • The band. As in the previous cruise, the dance band (called “Beauty and the Beat” on this cruise) was terrific. Good musicians, great vocals.
  • The shows. The entertainment was generally good and the full-cast shows in the theater were exceptionally good.
  • The watermelon art. Both Marlene and I loved the wonderfully watermelon carvings that adorned the buffet area every day.

Lowlights:

  • The price of internet. I get a day of internet occasionally – 4 times in 22 nights on this cruise. It was priced at $22 per day on the last cruise but was raised to $30 per day on this cruise. Seemed like price gouging.
  • The need to insert the room key to play a slot machine. This is a new requirement. Carnival claims that it is to “make sure we get full points credit.” But there was widespread suspicion that our gaming activity was being tracked and slot behavior may have been altered based on our individual gaming behaviors.
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ATW-2 Day 1: Disembarkation in Sydney

Sydney Opera House as we docked

This was a busy day. It began early, with me rising before dawn to catch a glimpse of the iconic Sydney Opera House as we docked. I wasn’t disappointed – I got some good photos.

But disappointment – and panic – soon followed when I realized that my phone was unable to connect to the cell service in Sydney. That had never happened before, even in third world islands. To eliminate the suspense, I will tell you what I learned later in the day: older cell phones (like mine) sometimes don’t recognize the cellular frequency used in Sydney. That leaves me hope that it will resume working when I get to Europe. But in the meantime, only Marlene’s phone has service. I have to rely on her phone and its hotspot to do anything – maps, text, email and, of course, blogging. But the hotel has free WiFi and I can use it when there.

Ashore in Sydney

Disembarkation went pretty smoothly. As usual, we took our bags ashore with us. We grabbed a taxi to the hotel. The driver asked us if $40 was ok. When we said that Uber was only $28 he said “Well, you can pay $35 if you prefer.” If we prefer? Yes, we prefer to pay less. Interesting negotiation.

We arrived at the hotel around 9:30am and were surprised to hear that the room was empty and we could go right up. We were even allowed to grab some breakfast. So far this hotel has impressed us. I will give a full review later but Marlene has already complimented me for choosing it.

We then embarked on a day of walking to various sites of interest. Our initial goal was to view the Sydney Opera House from land and we did that but along the way we saw many beautiful parks, interesting buildings and learned of a shopping mall and cathedral and we had to add those to our itinerary. All told we logged 15,000 steps. And we weren’t done – at 11pm we went for a stroll down by the harbor and added another 3,000 steps. A lot of walking on a very full day. We slept well.

Sydney is chock full of beautiful public spaces and public buildings. The New South Wales Library is amazing. If you think that libraries are no longer relevant, just visit this one. It was filled with students doing research and the second floor was a combination of an art gallery and a playground for children.

We walked from the library to the Opera House and got some good photos both there and on the way there. We found the Carnival Luminosa still docked near the Opera House.

We wandered the city in search of a magnet for Marlene’s brother Mike and eventually found ourselves at the Pitt Street Mall. That is where I learned that my phone might simply be too old to work in Sydney. We also got some chinese food from the food court. The serving was so large that it fed both of us and we packed up about half of it to take back to the hotel. On the way back to the hotel we stumbled upon St Mary’s Cathedral and went inside. We were both completely blown away by what we saw. This cathedral is both HUGE and BEAUTIFUL It is, I believe, larger than Notre Dame in Paris and is every bit as beautiful. Just not as old.

After a nap and some cards (Marlene won 2 to my 1) we strolled down to the harbor. We found some interesting people to talk to but were a bit surprised at how quiet the area was. Saturday night and none of the bars had music. Not like most American cities. We strolled on the pier at Finger Quay and admired the many multi-million dollar boats.

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ATW-1 Days 22 & 23: At sea

Our last two days aboard the Carnival Luminosa and the end of ATW-1. Day 22 was pretty sedate. We had breakfast, then I read and worked on the communal jigsaw puzzle ( 3,000 pieces – NO chance that it will be finished before we reach Sydney). I bought a day of internet because I had no internet in Noumea. I blogged some, then we had dinner at a table of 6 with 4 Aussies. The after-dinner show was a very nice acrobatic show. The same acrobats, I believe, that we saw on the Norwegian Jade. Good show.

Day 23 – our last day at sea – we spent time saying goodbye to new friends after breakfast. I had a hamburger for lunch – the only hamburger I had in 23 days. We played cards and, as usual, Marlene kicked my butt. Her count for the cruise: 8 victories for me and 19 for her. Ouch!

After dinner we packed and then made a final trip to the casino where, as usual, I lost. Total casino losses for the cruise for me: $900. More than I wanted to lose, but within my budget.

Farewell dinner in the dining room

This ends ATW-1; ATW-2 begins tomorrow when we dock in Sydney.

I will post an ATW-1 wrapup soon.

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“Darkest Fear” by Harlen Coben

Copyright 2000 by Harlen Coben. Published by Dell, an imprint of the Random House Publishing Group, a division of Random House, Inc, New York.

This is #7 of 12 in the series of Coben books featuring Myron Bolitar, professional sports agent, former professional basketball star and occasional detective. In this one he is approached by Emily Downing, a former lover and estranged wife of Greg Downing, an all-star pro basketball player who was a long-time rival, both on and off the basketball court, and a guy who was instrumental in causing the injury that ended Myron’s short professional career. There is no love lost between the two men, but Myron still carries a torch for Emily. She wants Myron’s help in finding a bone marrow donor for her sick teenage son, Jeremy. A doner who is a match for her son was found in the national bone marrow registry, but he can’t be located. Can Myron find him?

Myron wants to refuse. But then Emily drops the bombshell: Jeremy is Myron’s son, the result of a “farewell” hookup the night before Emily and Greg’s wedding.

This relatively simple request and the simple but difficult job of extracting information about the matching donor from the super secret bone marrow registry soon becomes very complicated. The donor seems to be a member of a very rich and powerful family who hasn’t been seen in over 30 years. And things get further complicated when the FBI gets involved. They are looking for a serial kidnapper and presumed murderer who is linked to a disgraced reporter who seems to be linked to the missing scion. Complicated enough?

As with every Coben novel that I have read, the complexity is resolved in a plausible way. But I won’t reveal the details. Was the donor found? Was the kidnapper/murderer brought to justice? Was Jeremy saved? Is Myron really his father? All of these questions are answered in a very satisfactory way.

Coben never disappoints. It is a lively, engrossing read. 8 out of 10.

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