Austin, TX

As I have already noted, the main reason we were in Austin was to catch up with Jett’s nephews and nieces.  But Austin is also one of my bucket list cities – a place that has always interested me but I have never had a reason to come here.  So I was also looking forward to a day in which we could wander around the city a bit.  That day was yesterday.

We began by heading toward downtown Austin with the intention of exploring the “SoCo” (for “south of Congress”) area, which is apparently an artsy-fartsy section of town.  I’m not sure we ever got there. Finding any area south of Congress proved to be problematic as Congress runs north/south.  We found some on-street parking not far from the capitol building and wandered that area for an hour.  It was mostly uninteresting, being home to lots of large banks.  There was, however, one stunningly beautiful office building which we found was the home of the Texas Schoolteacher’s Association.

Texas Schoolteacher’s Association office

We made it as far as the state capitol but did not have enough time on the meter to go inside.  That is because we had dawdled at a bakery that served some interesting concoctions including a variety of macarons (no, not macaroons), which are French pastry cookies, and lavender lemonade.  I was under the impression that lavender was to be smelled, not tasted.  I even had some vague recollection that it was toxic.  So naturally I had to try it.

Delicious.

Texas state capitol

On the way back to the truck we passed the governor’s mansion, home to Rick Perry, the man who Texans elected to lead them to prove, it seems, that George W. Bush was not, in fact, their dumbest governor ever.

Casa de Perry

Still in search of the elusive SoCo, we moved the truck to the east side of downtown and found the funky 6th St area.  This is primarily a street of nightclubs that were dark and quiet at noon, but there were enough restaurants and head shops (no, I didn’t get a crack pipe, but I could have) to keep things interesting.  I learned later that this area goes nuts on weekends, particularly when there is a home University of Texas football game.

Sixth St

Sixth St bar

We had lunch at the Driskill Hotel, another stunningly beautiful building in downtown Austin. It has a great lobby and upper lobby bar. It is one of the most interesting hotels I have ever seen.

The Driskill Hotel

Jett in the Driskill lobby

The upper lobby bar

I had a Pretzel Pig sandwich for lunch – slices of pork tenderloin on a bun made of pretzel dough, with a spicy BBQ sauce and cole slaw topping, with a side of home-made kettle chips, washed down with a local microbrew’s Octoberfest.

Pretzel Pig

That was one fine lunch.

We topped off our afternoon by finding the 360 bridge. This is a fairly new bridge northwest of downtown that is nice, but it is no Zakim. We were more impressed by the views we got as we approached it from the east side of the Colorado River (no, not THAT Colorado River, silly).

Jett catching the view

The Colorado River from above

The 360 bridge

We had another family dinner last night, but this one was at Trudy’s, an Austin Tex-Mex institution, to give Nick and Mark a night off from serving others. It was very good, but the best part of the evening was just catching up with everyone.

Trudy’s

Our home for the last three nights has been the Austin Lone Star RV Resort, conveniently located just 5 miles from Cafe Malta and less than 10 miles from downtown Austin. We liked the park. It was clean, well-maintained, had a nice dog park and a nice pool (which we actually used). It was 100% occupied on Saturday and seemed about 80% occupied last night, so it is popular. My only complaint is that the pull-thrus were small. I had a hard time squeezing the truck onto the site.

Next stop: San Antonio. We plan to stop along the way to see if we can get the troublesome #2 slide cable fixed. It is fraying and may pop any minute.

It’s always something…

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GTW Hop 16: Livingston, TX, to Austin, TX

218 miles via TX 146, US 190, TX 30, 90 and 105, US 290, TX 21 and 71 and I-35.  Cumulative distance: 2,577 miles.

GTW Hop 16: Livingston TX to Austin TX

Yeah, this route was as complicated as it sounds.  Jett pretty much went crazy trying to keep up with the turns while simultaneously trying to reconcile the Google map with the GPS instructions (which make things even more complicated by adding street names to ramps, etc.).  We also didn’t get very good mileage and decided to stop for gas – something that I hate to do when towing a 39-foot 5th wheel.  Actually, we had to stop twice because the first place did not have diesel at the pump we pulled into and we couldn’t maneuver to where diesel was available.  Then when I finally did get gas at the second-try station, I forgot to put the cap back on and had to pull over on TX 21 to fix that little oversight.

But despite those little hiccups it was a pretty pleasant trip.  We are definitely getting into prairie country now and had some sweeping vistas of cattle ranches.  We had to stop for a long freight train in Navasota, a little town that looked like a set from a 1930’s movie.

When we got to our campground there was a “no vacancy” sign posted, which made me VERY happy that we had reserved a spot.  Apparently there was a big college football game yesterday – Texas vs Baylor?  First the Thursday night NFL game in Nashville and now this.  If I was a big football fan I couldn’t have planned this trip any better.

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Livingston, TX

Livingston seems like a nice small Texas town.  But we aren’t here to see the town; we are here to see Rainbow’s End, home park of the Escapees RV Club, a.k.a. SKP (get it?).  This park is open to the public, but clearly caters to Escapees members.  The club itself does not promote Rainbow’s End, or any of its other 7 “Rainbow parks” – campgrounds owned by the club – but independent reviews are available (e.g. here and here).  The reviews are not all complimentary and I can see why.  Compared to some of our other campgrounds, the facilities were second-rate: a gravel pad (instead of concrete) on our pull-through, no showers or restrooms nearby, an older laundry room, no cable TV, no WiFi in our area, no camp store, a smallish dog park and minimal landscaping.

Patience resting at Rainbow’s End

The laundry

The pool

We loved it.

Why? A deep sense of community, of everyone pulling together for the common good, suffuses the place. Everyone we met – from the instant I walked in the office door and found the manager hugging a departing camper – was friendly, helpful and supportive.  Social events dotted the calendar.  The community supports Livingston charities as well – we helped load trucks with the tables and chairs from the community center that were being loaned to the SPCA for the day for a fundraising event and the annual bake sale in support of the Livingston volunteer fire department (which has provided funding for two trucks and other equipment over the past 20 years) is one of next week’s highlights.  Last night we went to an all-you-can eat spaghetti dinner SPCA fundraiser at the local Methodist church and were surprised (though we shouldn’t have been) to find that half the people there were Escapees.  We sat with some of them and felt like we belonged.

Next week is “TexFest”, this year’s name for the annual week-long Octoberfest party.  Members are arriving from all over the country to attend.  One gets the sense that members use these events as good excuses to get together to renew friendships.  We are sorry that we have to leave before the festivities begin.

Adding to the sense of community is the fact that there are many “permanent” residents of Rainbow’s End.  This group includes some long-term residents living in their RVs, but also includes a large number of people who own deeded sites, most of which include a small cottage and a large hanger-like garage for their RV.  These people might spend most of their time on the road, but have a place to come home to.

Cottage with hanger

Some live in one RV and use another to travel.

A 2-RV resident

There are 128 daily use campsites at Rainbow’s End, but almost 200 deeded sites.

What else makes Rainbow’s End unique?  I have already mentioned SmartWeigh.  It is also our mail-forwarding service (yes, we picked up our mail so to our creditors who are reading this: the check is in the mail).  Most unique of all, though, is the Care facility.  This is basically a nursing facility for aging or disabled RVers.  The Care facility (which houses medical facilities as well as an adult daycare room and a larger multi-function room) is surrounded by 38 campsites reserved for RVers needing assistance.  If necessary, meals are delivered to them in their RVs.  Cost for daily support, including the 3 meals and adult daycare?  $650 per month.  That works out to about $20 per day for meals and a variety of other non-medical assistance (shopping, etc), provided by volunteers.  I assume that medical care is covered separately, mostly under Medicare and I think the RV site has some rent as well, but not much.

The Care facility

We had breakfast at the Care facility yesterday ($4 for eggs, hashbrowns, grits, biscuits and gravy, bacon, sausage and toast) and met some of the elderly RVers receiving care there. Jett and I agreed that it was the most cheerful assisted living facility we have ever seen.

The Escapees RV Club is one of those organizations – like my fraternity – where everyone has a memorized number. During social hour a speaker invariably begins by introducing himself or herself as “I am Jane Doe, 12345”. Jett was impressed when we were asked to introduce ourselves the first night and I could recite our number: 110057. One of the speakers was Kathy, number 3, daughter of the founder. Over 110,000 people have joined since the founding, it seems.

The Escapees RV Club is also affiliated – loosely – with 11 SKP Co-op parks. These are parks owned and operated by the people – all Escapees – who individually own the sites in the park. Basically, campground condos. The sites are used by the owners when they are there but are available, very inexpensively, to other SKP members when they are elsewhere. I think this is a rather unique arrangement and I hope to try one out sometime, just to see how they work.

We wish we could have stayed at Rainbow’s End longer, but we must leave today. As we leave we will give everyone the closing that is used at every Rainbow’s End social: “Have a Rainbow day!”

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SmartWeigh

I will file a complete post tomorrow on Rainbow’s End, the Escapees RV Club’s home base here in Livingston, TX. But today we took advantage of the SmartWeigh program to get a detailed weight analysis of our rig. Given our history with blowouts, it seemed like a really good idea to find out if we were over our weight limit on any axle.

For $55, we got a weight for each side of each axle of the truck, with and without the trailer attached, plus per-wheel weights on the RV.  Bottom line: the truck is fine, the front axle of the RV is fine, but the rear axle is slightly over its limit.  The primary lesson: we need to move some stuff from the bunkhouse forward when we travel.  But now that we have wheel-by-wheel weights we can, at long last, figure out what the “right” air pressure is for each tire.

Seems like a lot of useful information for $55.

There are permanent scales at both Livingston and the Escapees campground in Congress, AZ.  Plus they take the scales to jamborees.  You don’t need to be an Escapees club member to get weighed.

Highly recommended.

The SmartWeigh station

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Technical note – copying photos

Several readers have commented on some of my photos. I appreciate the feedback and am glad you are enjoying them. But it occurred to me that some might not be aware that it is possible to download any photo you like and make it your own.

To copy a single photo to your hard disk, double-click on it in the blog post and when it shows up (enlarged) on its own page, right-click on the photo and select “Save Image As…”. Pick a location on your disk and, presto!, you have a copy of it, with no loss of resolution. I have cropped most of these photos to 4×6, so it you print the file it should make a very nice 4×6 photo.

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GTW Hop 15: Bossier City, LA, to Livingston, TX

176 miles via I-20, US 79 and 59 and TX 146. Cumulative distance: 2,359 miles.

GTW Hop 15: Bossier City LA to Livingston TX

This hop, except for the first 16 miles, was entirely on roads with traffic lights and crossing traffic. Jett didn’t like it at all, especially when the speed limit – even on 2-lane roads in relatively congested areas – rose to 70 mph when we crossed into Texas. And with no Obama signs to be seen anywhere, it was clear that we were not in Massachusetts anymore.

But the roads were actually easy to drive, the traffic wasn’t heavy and the scenery was relaxing – rolling hills and a mix of fields and patches of trees. No forest, really.

Our destination was Rainbow’s End, the home park of the Escapees RV Club. It is where our mail is being forwarded, so we will pick up our mail tomorrow. And we hope to learn more about this fascinating retirement community for full-time RVers.

I should mention that the temperature the entire way was in the 80’s and setting up in Livingston left me soaked in sweat. At 10pm it was still in the high 70’s. A thunderstorm did not do much to cool things off.

Jett is in her element.

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Bossier City, LA

Some stops – such as Hot Springs – turn out to be better than expected. Others – like Bossier City/Shreveport – balance that out by being disappointments. We were so unthrilled with Bossier City that we left after just one night, instead of the planned two.

Because I have so little to report on Bossier City, let me catch you up on a couple of other things.

First, the truck has been starting fine. I was a little worried, when I replaced the battery, that it would be a waste of money, but it seems to have done the trick.

Second, the mouse is gone. Oh… I didn’t mention the mouse? Ever since we left NH we have been been hearing little feet on the roof. At first I thought it was birds, then possibly a squirrel. But we had found a dead mouse in the front basement when we were preparing to leave NH and when I found additional droppings later I was forced to conclude that we had a hitchhiker with us. When Jett found droppings under the kitchen sink we knew we had to take action. So we bought some mouse traps in Memphis and placed two in the basement area and one in the kitchen. I baited them with cheese (which shows how little imagination I have) and – voila! – we caught one in Hot Springs. I was too much of a softie to kill it, so I walked it over to the other side of the stream and released it into the woods. It was nearly dead and coated with some combination of sweat and/or cheese grease (it had been a hot day and the cheese kind of melted), but once he realized that he was out of the trap he burrowed under the leaves and disappeared.

So watch out, Arkansas – there is a NH mouse on the loose, ready to breed with your local mice. A new race of supermouse is on the way.

Back to Bossier City. Apparently Shreveport/Bossier (pronounced bo-shur) City is the Atlantic City of Louisiana. It has numerous casinos – I counted five and there are probably more. Most are along the Red River and have riverboat motifs. But Diamond Jack’s Casino puzzles me. I can see from the satellite view in the Google map that the casino is in a dry-docked riverboat. But you would never know that from the inside. What you get in the casino is three stories of windowless rooms. Absolutely no riverboat charm or charm of any other kind, for that matter. It is, without question, the darkest, most depressing casino that I have ever seen. Not even a view of the river. Whoever designed this loser completely wasted its natural assets. I don’t get it.

Speaking of losers, the slots there were tighter than Mick Jagger’s pants. We lost $50 and had no fun doing it. But they did have a pretty nice buffet that included a carving station with roast pork, ham and beef, a very nice salad bar and some interesting soups and desserts.

We stayed in Diamond Jack’s RV Park, adjacent to the casino. It is convenient for those who would want to hang out in the depressing gaming rooms, but it had no laundry, no baths and no amenities of any other kind. What it did have was train traffic heavy enough to shake the bed at 4am and an overpowering odor of raw sewerage. So one night was plenty.

Diamond Jack’s RV Park

Before we left I spent a couple of hours on the bike path in Shreveport along the Red River. My intention was to get a brisk workout and try to do most, if not all, of the 8-mile path. But I spent the first 30 minutes trying to fix the rear brakes that had gotten out of whack – crushed by Patience in a tight turn, maybe? – but failed. I had to remove the rear brake, then travel slowly using only the front brake. And the path was not as interesting as I hoped. Pretty bland, really. It did have a skateboard park, which my son would find interesting. Not much else.

Skateboard park

The bland bike path

On to Livingston, TX!

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GTW Hop 14: Hot Springs, AR, to Bossier City, LA

211 miles via US 70, I-30, AR 245 and 549, US 71 and I-20. Cumulative distance: 2,183 miles.

GTW Hop 14: Hot Springs AR to Bossier City LA

This hop was supposed to be just 190 miles, but I missed a turn which cost us another 20 miles. Oops. But, as Jett observed, if that was the worst thing that happened to us, it would be fine. And it was. Another ding-free day.

We certainly had a better day than the poor souls who were lying on the pavement of I-30 eastbound just before we left it near Texarkana. They were surrounded by EMTs, ambulances, police vehicles, remnants of their truck (looks like it flipped and they were thrown out) and lots of traffic, completely stopped. I suspect that a helicopter was on the way because it looked very serious. So we were very happy to just go 20 miles further than we needed.

I-30 was less hectic than I-40, but it was no picnic. AR 549 was great for 25 miles – brand new road, very little traffic – but then it ended and we had to make the rest of the way on US 71. It went though a couple of backwoods areas of Louisiana. Scenic in a decrepit way, I guess.

We are staying at the RV park at DiamondJacks Casino in Bossier City, just across the river from Shreveport. I don’t know quite what to expect, but maybe it will be a nice warmup for Vegas.

Did I mention that Jett’s sister is going to join us for 4 days in Vegas early in November? That should be a blast!

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Hot Springs, AR

Hot Springs has always intrigued me.  Is there a naughtier name in America?  Just Intercourse, I think.  Now we have been to both.

And – surprise – the springs are really hot!  The spring-fed fountains actually steam, even on a hot day (80 yesterday).

Steaming fountain

I suppose that it is easy to like a town when the weather is perfect, as it was for our visit – crystal clear skies, low humidity, a light breeze and balmy 80 degree heat. Just beautiful. But I probably would like it in a driving rain, too. Great architecture and some steamy history involving gangsters and sports heroes – a fine combination.

It is a place that we would both like to visit again.

Maybe next time we will actually indulge in a bath. Cost: $64 for a whirlpool bath, a 20-minute massage and a loofah to take home.

Four things that caught our attention in Hot Springs:

  1. Bathhouse Row.  This is Hot Springs’ raison d’etre, of course.  Only one of the bathhouses is still offering baths, but the buildings are all still there, all are still in use in some way and all offer a view into a simpler time a century ago.
  2. The Promenade. This brick walk above Bathhouse Row is a fine stroll. A great place to be on a perfect day.
  3. The Arlington Hotel. The building is an imposing period to the Bathhouse Row sentence. And the interior is a tangible piece of Roaring 20’s art.
  4. Andrew’s Restaurant. We were attracted to this second-floor restaurant by the sidewalk sign that promised a “bakery bar”. Never seen a bakery bar, so of course we had to go upstairs. There we found a very authentic 1920’s dining room, reminiscent of the old Durgin Park, complete with a row of betting windows in the hall, from its days as a bookie joint. The food was good – not great – but the ambiance was amazing.

Bathhouse Row visitor center

Buckstaff Bath building

The Promenade

Jett testing the waters

The Arlington Hotel

The Arlington’s lobby bar

Andrew’s sign

Andrew’s betting window hall

Andrew’s dining room

Our home for the Hot Springs stay was Catherine’s Landing, a very nice RV park near Lake Catherine. We were not on the water, but were near the dog run, the laundry and the bathrooms. The park also has a very nice playground (though we saw no children while there), a 9-hole Frisbee golf course and a heated pool. Jett thinks it is her favorite campground yet, which, combined with our love of the town, made this a very successful stop on our journey.

The dog run

The river

Back-on sites on the river

The pool

Inside the lodge

Sitting area in the lodge

We also gave Patience a treat before we moved on: we washed her. We didn’t realize how dirty she was until the job was done and she looked (almost) new again. That $100 wasn’t in our budget, but it was worth it.

Patience, freshly washed

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GTW Hop 13: West Memphis, AR, to Hot Springs, AR

186 miles via I-40, I-30, US 70 and US 270. Cumulative distance: 1,972 miles.

GTW Hop 13: West Memphis AR to Hot Springs AR

Number 13 was lucky for us: no dings! The only real adventure of any sort on this hop was a mysterious 20-minute delay on I-40 east of Little Rock – no accident, no work crew (though it was in a work zone), no disabled vehicle on the side of the road. It seemed like the road was shut down for some unknown reason and by the time we got to where it had been shut all evidence had been removed. Strange.

As it has been since we first encountered it east of Knoxville, I-40 was a sea of 18-wheelers.  We were happy to finally leave it behind in Little Rock.  I-30 had its share of trucks, but was less congested than I-40.

Jett did not like the small roads that we had to take for the last few miles to our campsite, nor did she enjoy being low on gas.  But we made it safely.  She really likes the campground.  More on it tomorrow.

Today we will take a peek at the famous Bathhouse Row and, just maybe, take a bath.

I wonder if they do dogs too?

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